Liquid Wax

kaiserb · #21 10-19-2005, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RogerC

Yes, Brian re: Naptha. Isn't Naptha an oderless version of Mineral Spirits?

Roger.

Naptha is a hexane derivative and (generally) has a lower boiling point than Mineral Spirits. Technically yes Naptha is high-flash Mineral Spirit.

Naptha -- A generic term applied toa petroleum fraction with an approximate boiling range between 122oF and 400oF.

Mineral Spirits -- Boiling Point 149Â°C (300Â°F) Min.

Donna_T · #22 10-20-2005, 01:17 AM

When I first started using paste wax, I used it just like it comes in the can. Then I tried making it more liquid and less solid by mixing mineral spirits. It did help, but unless you are very patient with the mixing process, you still have lumps and chunks of solid paste wax to deal with.

When I microwave the wax, I just put it on for 10-15 seconds at a time. It only takes a couple of these session for it to start melting. However, I don't think it gets very close to the 100 as I can stick my finger in the stuff and not get burned....and there are still some pieces of wax that haven't liquified, but they are mushy. I just use my brush to stir it a bit and it's about the consistency of honey, and much easier to apply that hard wax.

I agree that we take a lot for granted and since we're dealing with potentially harmful and compustible materials, we can never be too careful. Good Points.
Donna T

Hugh · #23 10-20-2005, 03:41 AM

Great topic, I have used hard wax (MIN WAX) a couple times since I read about it on this site. Very nice finish, and seems quite durable also. As for heating or thinning it, I would think that it would penetrate the wood better also if its warm or thinner. Lots of good information, thanks.

Irish · #24 10-20-2005, 04:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Donna_T

When I microwave the wax, I just put it on for 10-15 seconds at a time. It only takes a couple of these session for it to start melting. However, I don't think it gets very close to the 100 as I can stick my finger in the stuff and not get burned....and there are still some pieces of wax that haven't liquified, but they are mushy. I just use my brush to stir it a bit and it's about the consistency of honey, and much easier to apply that hard wax.

Donna T

Donna ... I agree! I don't think that nuking it for 10-15 seconds could possibly get it near 100 degrees. For my microwave it takes 1 minute 20 seconds to heat the coffee up to very hot but not boilings! Where you are at is probably more semi-liquid soft than liquid.

And using boiling water as another way to soften the wax also would be below the 100 degree range. First, I said take the boiling water pan off the stove! Water boils at 100 degrees so once removed from the heat the temp begins to drop. Throw in any other item (the pan of wax) and that item will also reduce the heat. The pan of wax can never reach the 100 degree range ... just not possible.

I may not be a chemist or have a chemical engineering degree but I really think we are both OK!

Susan

BobD · #25 10-20-2005, 09:17 AM

Now I'm going to have to go home and experiment re the temperature of wax after 15 seconds in the microwave...<grin>

Bob

AlArchie · #26 10-20-2005, 09:30 AM

Another interesting thread......one that made me do a little research, too. My wife does some candle making, so we are familiar with melting wax for that purpose and were aware of the fire hazard involved. Anyway I did a bit of digging to verify our temperature parameters for candle making.

The Flash Point of paraffin wax is roughly the same as Minwax's pastewax, ie 100 degrees F. (source; CandleWick website and related links)

The IGNITION POINT of the paraffin waxes is generally higher than the boiling point of water, or 212 degrees at sea level. There are different grades of paraffin and other waxes so this point may vary some. As elevation increases above sea level, the boiling point of water decreases and may get as low as 190 degrees at really high elevations (I won't go into the ambient pressure formulas, cuz it's generally not relavant for this purpose).

The difference between "Flash Point" and "Ignition Point" is the critical factor in handling melting waxes.

Flash point is as Brian stated, the temperature at which volatile vapors from the substance will ignite if exposed to an open flame or spark. However, there are not enough volatiles being produced at this temperature to sustain combustion, and after a brief "flash", the burn will extinguish itself for lack of adequate vapor production to sustain combustion.

The IGNITION point is the temperature at which there is adequate volatile vapor production to sustain combustion. These are generally at or above 212 degrees.

So, melting wax in a double boiler or for very brief periods in a microwave, where no ignition source is present should present no particular fire hazard.
The melting points of most of these common waxes is well BELOW the 212 degree temp of boiling water at sea level.

Paraffin Waxes consist mostly of straight chain hydrocarbons and are available in a wide variety of melting points ranging from 120 to 160 degrees farenheit.

Maybe this will clear up some worries about heating the paste wax........or stir some more discussion.

Constant care and obervation is necessary when melting wax to make sure it doesn't get overheated!

Al

AlArchie · #27 10-20-2005, 09:43 AM

Susan, the boiling point of water is 100 degrees Centigrade.......212 degrees Farenhiet, Temps give for the critical points of waxes were in F.

Unless, of course you live at 30,000 foot elevation....then maybe BP is 100...hehehe

Al

Irish · #28 10-20-2005, 10:28 AM

LOL! AlArchie!!!! No, I live in Maryland where the boiling point is about 15 minutes after I put the copper bottomed pot on the stove ... 25 minutes if it's the old heavy aluminum pot. ROL LOL!

Al, great explanation and in words that this little old Momma understands. Thank you. Which makes absolute sense as our candle waxes are poured between 165 and 175 degrees. And when you said centigrade even I remembered ... it's only been 35 years since high school chem lab and in my experience it seemed to me that nuking for 10 seconds or double boilering paste wax was not about to start the next Great Chicago Fire ...

I'm going on the wagon here and taking the pledge! Only posting about wood carving, wood tools, and wood patterns and only using 10 cent words!

Susan

PS ... And only responding to 25 cent words!

RogerC · #29 10-20-2005, 08:46 PM

What a GREAT discussion on this topic!!! Thank you all for participating!!
I'm not going to worry about the "liquid wax" and have started my next Home Depot shopping list for the paste wax.

Roger.

oldbearx2 · #30 10-25-2005, 05:53 PM

I also have used the liquid wax and think it's great for getting into smallest crevices. I was able to get mine at my local Woodcraft store, but then found it cheaper at Home Depot store. I also use a paste wax called Briwax, that comes in three different colors, light, medium and dark. have fun, carve Harold