[Irishman]

I am looking for suggestions as to how I can stop (or cover-up) the greenish shadowing occurring in a couple of my woodspirits. I don't know if this discoloring is unique to the horse chesnut I'm using or some other reason. I have put layers of tung oil on the wood but I slowly see what can be mistaken as mold coming through on the wood. Should I tint the oil with some oil paint or what would you recommend?
Patrick

[Paul_Guraedy]

I have never carved horse chestnut; but, have used a lot of tung oil. The only time I have had mold or mildew appear in wood that has been treated with tung oil is on outdoor furniture, and it never has come in green. It is always a very dark, almost black color. And this has only happened with pieces where I neglected to keep putting on the tung oil until I had a nice waterproof coating.

Tung oil, like most finishes, does not offer protection form ultra-violet light nor the natural coloring of wood due to aging. My guess is that the green color you are seeing is characteristic of this wood. If it were my carving, I would let it go and see what happens. With a woodspirit green color creeping in could be a good thing.

Tell us more about this wood. There are many of us that are interested in any wood that is not one of those that is commonly carved.

[Irishman]

Paul, I think your correct that it may be characteristic of the wood. It almost appears that the color is coming from under the skin of the wood. Horse chesnut, from my understanding, gets its name honestly as my shop has a hint of a smell like a horse stall. The wood carves very nicely and is quite pale when freshly carved. The few WS I have done show very few knots or variances in colors, and thus far, little sign of cracking...yet the wood is still quite green. I have sealed the ends hoping to lessen the cracking and cut my logs a little longer. I would not say the wood is stringy but it is more so than other wood I carved. That's a quick description. Because the green appears as mold from viewers, I am inclined to darken the color of my oil...now how do I do....well that's part of my original posting.
Patrick

[Paul_Guraedy]

Patrick, I have had good results by adding oil stain to tung oil. I would recommend using a small amount and building up with washes to get the color as dark as you want. Once the stain has been added, I use the tung oil as I always have. By the way, I have recently started using foam brushes to apply the tung oil rather than the rags I had used previously. The only thing different is not to put any pressure on the foam brush or it will cause a "run" of tung oil.

[Irishman]

Thanks Paul. I ended up purchasing a tube of raw umber oil paint to mix with my tung oil. I may post my results depending on how it goes. From what I read from all the postings on finishing, I should first mix a small amount of the oil paint with some thinner, then add it to the tung oil to get the color I'm looking for. Wish me luck.
Patrick

[Paul_Guraedy]

Patrick, that is the way I have used to mix color into Tung Oil Finish. I have been using Formby's or Minwax for years. Earlier this year I happened to be in Grizzley's (Springfield, MO) and happened onto some pure tung oil. Research revealed that Tung Oil Finish: 1. Does not even have to contain tung oil. 2. Contains varnish as an additive.

I am still experimenting with the pure tung oil and finding that it is a lot different to using the Tung Oil Finishes. It does not "gel up" as readily as do the finishes. Color is a lot easier to add (even added some to a mix of 1:3, pure tung oil to mineral spirits) by just putting it in and stirring. The pure stuff does not add a "shine" to the finished wood (apparently that is casued by the varnish additive).

In short, I will be using pure tung oil from now on. If I want the shiny finish I will use paste wax to achieve it.

Please let us know how this works out, and do include pics.

[dutchmanmk3]

First off the Green color is a characteristic of horse chestnut, and poplar both. Green and Blue are also the most difficult colors to supress, and both U.V. light and oxidation can make it more pronounced with age. If you can seal the wood before finish, and use an appropriate U.V. resistant finish you Can alleviate 85% of the problem before hand.

Two differnet schools of thought though. One says the wood is what it IS and to Promote it's natural state to it's best advantage. The other says the artist creates the piece in his Own image ?

With the multitude of finishes at your disposal I'd like to believe the latter, but experience has shown that the wood seldom gives a Tinkers Cuss what I believe !