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Wood Finishing and Painting | |||
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#1
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I just finished a bear carved in butternut and, not having carved in butternut before, finished it with two coats of boiled linseed oil. That was about two weeks ago and now it appears to be drying out. What would be a could finish coat over the linseed oil? Any ideas? Something without too much of a sheen. darnley |
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#2
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A few more "coats" of blo .... very thin and rub them in well with your hands ... if done properly should not take that long to dry ... blo is know in the gunsmith trade as the "once finish." Once a day for a week Once a week for a month Once a month for a year Once a year forever. A carving doesn't take the abuse of a gun stock so you don't need to go to quite that extreme. The biggest mistake is to put it on like varnish or paint. Very thin coats rubbed in by hand. You should feel the heat. It gives a very beautiful rich looking finish. Look at some of the old walnut gunstocks (not the newer ones done in Tru-oil type finishes). Old Winchester shotguns come to mind, model 12's or 97's for instance. Some of the older rifles also, like the early model 94 lever guns. |
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#3
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I have tried the boiled linseed oil a couple of times. It is ok on a smooth carving where it can be rubbed in. My preference is to use tung oil. It works well even in rough areas and crevices. I use the Formby's low gloss (high gloss has more varnish) and put on as many coats as needed to reach the look I want. I go over it between coats with 5-0 steel wool. I finished some raw oak furniture this way back in the '70s and it is still looking great. Mellowed into a golden color. Should you use tung oil be careful with the rags you use. I lay mine out on the work table and let them dry before throwing them away. They can self-combust. I am attaching a couple of pics of pieces I finished this way.
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#4
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I should have mentioned that the table these carvings were placed on for the photos was one of the pieces of raw oak I finished with tung oil. It is our dining table and has survived the teen-age years of two boys.
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#5
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I have used Johnson Paste floor wax with success. Several coats allowing drying time and buffing in between. The little bride dosen't like the smell of BLO so,,,,,
__________________ God Bless Kenny I 'd rather live my life believeing in God and find out there wasn't a God than live my life without God and find out there is a God http://www.picturetrail.com/ken_sanders My WCI Gallery http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...00/ppuser/2326 |
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#6
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I use a lot of BLO, the big issue here is - pour it on,leave it for 20 min. and wipe it off, than you wait until the smell is gone ,and then you can put anything over whatever you fancy, on wood where I don't want to change color(Birch and spalted), I use waterbourne poly.I use BLO when I want the grain really to show up( no good on grainless wood) if you don't wipe it off it never seems to dry or loose the smell, hope this helps Alice |
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#7
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I apply oil (Danish or Varathane Clear Oil Finish), wait 20 min, wipe off, re-oil, wipe off dry. Let set/dry overnight. Then plenty of layers of paste wax, buffing with a soft cloth or shoe brush between each application. Gives a warm luster, not really a shine, and a nice fragrance, much nicer than BLO. Bob
__________________ Before they slip me over the standing part of the fore sheet, I'd like to pipe: "Up Spirits" or "Splice the Main Brace" .....................one more time. http://community.webshots.com/user/squbrigg link to Gallery photos http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...user/2823/sl/s |
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