Finishing Basswood

#1 11-23-2002, 10:42 PM

Okay, still playing with this basswood issue.....how do you all finish it? When I sand it, it comes up sort of 'fuzzy' - is that normal? Do you NOT sand it, but just make clean cuts? When you do have it smoothed, does it need to be sealed or protected in any way? I ask, because I don't normally use any kind of oils, etc. - just water-based paint and varnishes. Is that okay for basswood?

Teri

Nancy_G · #2 11-24-2002, 12:39 AM

Just me - and what do I know? :P . I don't sand at all, ever. And I just seal over wood burned areas, then paint with acrylics and antique with oil based Liquin. That's it. My oldest carving is just 14 years old but I haven't had any complaints so far.

#3 11-24-2002, 01:35 AM

Thanks, Nancy...that helps. I need to look closer at a couple of yours...are there close-up shots anywhere I could look at?

Teri

#4 11-24-2002, 10:22 AM

yes I sand basswood and yes it does get fuzzy at times, I want to try some KT sealer, supposed to help and can be burned over, also you can turn your burner down and burn off the frizzies! and I finish naturally and paint, I have used acrylics and oils and don't see any particular problem with either one.

AlArchie · #5 11-24-2002, 10:48 AM

Basswood always fuzzes when I sand it so I seal it with a sanding sealer first (not waterbased). Then, only LIGHTLY!
this removes ALL the fuzzies.

Al

lorax · #6 11-24-2002, 04:17 PM

If I want a basswood carving sanded smooth, I usually use a sanding sealer. If you are going to paint with acrylics, you should use waterbased sealer or it may affect the paint.

AlArchie · #7 11-24-2002, 04:57 PM

Lorax, at the risk of sounding argumentative, I use Cabot 2700 sealer exclusively, and have never had any problem using acrylics over it. Once it's dry, it is totally no-reactive. I've even used acrylics OVER poly varnish, in layers to achieve depth to the colors and surface.

I have not had any good experiences with waterbased sealers, but have only tried them over wood working projects finished with stain and clear varnish. They always seem to give a milky appearance to the clear finish. gues that wouldn't matter if the articlwe is going to be pained though!

Al

Nancy_G · #8 11-24-2002, 05:56 PM

Yeah, I have no idea what my precious KT sealer is based with but it's sure not water and acrylics work great over it. At least I THINK they do.
I hope they do.
I'm getting paranoid.
Are you all trying to crucify me?

#9 11-24-2002, 06:17 PM

I hadn't painted any of my carvings until just recently. Some I just left rought and stained and then waxed them. Others that I wanted smooth I just sanded until I finished with the 120 grit paper then I gave them a good bath in the sink, sanded with 150, another bath, 220, bath, 440, bath, 0000 steel wool, bath, and finally crumpled up brown paper bag. Then couple three coats of wax and the paper bag again. A lot of messing around, but smooth as can be. You could probably dispense with a few of the baths.

Callynne · #10 11-25-2002, 06:34 AM

Â* Â* Okay, here's something else I didn't know about. Â*I like a smooth finish on a lot of my pieces and I haven't had anything get fuzzy yet, didn't even know it could! Â*When I finish carving I sand with 150 grit sandpaper, then 220 grit. Â*Everything so far has come out nice and smooth. Â*The faces of my pieces I seal with plain old tung oil varnish and the colored portions I paint with acrylics, then spray the entire piece with a satin finish sealer. Â*Having said all this I'm sure the Santa I'm working on now will be a fuzzy mess!

Callynne