Finish for outdoor carving??

[Josef Fortenbacher]

I make planters out of logs and have always left them natural. I need help deciding what type of finish I should us if I wanted to put on some sort of sealer on these logs (bark has been stripped). I've seen large carvings in Wisconsin that have been sprayed with a finish and like the look. These carvings, as with my planters, are left outside all year long and subject to winter cold and summer humidity.

Should I just put on a poly coat, or some other product prior to its' application? Or a Deft sealer? Help!!!

[brianrickman]

You might want to try "spar varnish". It's meant for use on boats. Another (lower cost) option is the waterproofing stain that is used on outdoor furniture and wood decks.

The poly that I have says "indoor use only" on the can.

[Goody]

We use a Minwax product called Helmsman. We do recomnend to our customers to respray the outdoor products once a year.
Goody

[arbarnhart]

I use 100% tung oil:

Masters Blend Finish - Tung Oil-100% Pure (TM)

According to them:

It produces a tough, hard, surface that is absolutely waterproof, abrasion resistant and non-toxic.

I mostly agree, but "absolutely waterproof" is stretching it. One reason I prefer it over spar varnish is because if you let spar varnish go a little too long it needs to be stripped to reapply while tung oil can just be rubbed on again. If properly maintained, spar varnish seals a little better IMO, but I would use oil for planters.

[mobjack68]

Any clear/semi-clear finish will need to be reapplied annually (at least).
The sun goes thru the finish and breaks down the lignin in the wood. The decomp causes the finish to turn loose and then it cracks allowing more/further decomp...you get the idea. There are clear finishes with UV protectant (usually marked) and they get pricey very quick. The thicker the finish the better the protection...diminishing returns happens pretty quick, too thick looks like plastic rather than wood...

[John T]

I use a finish by Sikkens - Door & Window sealant ( Satin ) I put 3 coats of this on my carvings some carvings are stained and then 3 coats of this sealant and some left natural with 3 coats of this sealant. I started using this product 2 yrs ago and the carvings are outside in all 4 seasons and temperatures, and so far there is no sign of having to redo them yet.

[Albertagirl]

A question for Andy: can you use the Tung oil overtop a stain? I want to stain a cedar piece and leave it outdoors and I like the idea that if it needs to be reapplied that I wouldn't have to strip it.

A question for John: would you have to strip off the sealant or just reapply?

Thanks for your help, everyone! I am a junior woodcarver from Canada.

[John T]

Hello Alberta Girl

No on the stripping (that is toooo much like a lot of work ) so far that is the beauty of this product. Like I mentioned I have not had to spruce mine up in 2 yrs, and now I had just checked them and they appear om for another season, and I keep them outside all 4 seasons ( I live in Ontario ). Now I had chainsawed a carving on a tree for a lady 2 yrs ago and this tree faces south and It could do with another coat to freshen it up and that is the only one. I would just reapply over it. I hope this helps

[JimPletcher]

Another vote for Sikkens.
The compound I have experience with is transparent with a distinct reddish cast (although it is called clear).

My first use was ten years ago in the greenhouse where I coated cedar shelves and tables with three coats of Sikkens.

It performed so well (needed cleaning and another coat after five years) that it was applied on all exterior cedar surfaces about five years ago. As the surface finish weathers (gets dull) it is cleaned and given anoter coat.

It's the best thing I've found for outdoor use, and will use it on a new cedar carving that will be outside 10 months of the year. It also salvaged a wood-grained fiberglass front door.