How to finish ( gouge, sand, etc) on different projects

[Harris from Kalama]

I have a number of books that have been mentioned on here for relief, caricture, flat plane, etc. and none really covers finishing the project. I don't mean stain type finish but how to finish the wood so the carving looks finished. Info would be appreciated.

Harris

[Dan S]

I'll throw in my two bits. Others will too I presume. If you are talking about the final surface of your carving then there are different opinions on this.
Many carvers would not dream of sanding a carving. They like the facets and look of a carved piece. This idea has merit in that you put a lot of time and effort putting those marks on the surface in the first place and it's a shame to sand them away.
There are those who sand everything. This can ruin a carving if not done with care. Sanding blurrs features and removes detail. Sort of like a melting ice sculpture. I really don't care for the look. If you are going to do this you need to move through the various grits so as to remove all of the scratches from the previous courser grit. It takes a lot of time and effort.
I do a bit of both. If I want to get a smoother look, say on a face, I will use a bit of sand paper lightly. I don't really sand a whole piece.
In my opinion a well finished piece is one without splinters, bad cuts and fuzzies. It should be clean, so avoid using a pencil on your work and wash your hands frequently when carving. Particulary after sharpening your tools. While you are at it keep those clean as well.
Well thats all I have. I hope it helps.

Dan

[morganwoodcarver]

I agree with Dan on finishing a piece, the only time that i will sand a piece is if it really needs to be smooth. There are certain projects that look good completely sanded and others that just need to be left with the cut marks,dont forget its all about what you want it to look like.

[Dan S]

I forgot the most important thing in my "two bits". You absolutely , positively must have SHARP TOOLS. No matter how good you are or get, dull tools will ruin the look of a piece. Dull tools crush wood fibers instead of slicing them cleanly.

Ok, I'm all done now.
Dan

[William]

It really depends on the type of carving you want to do, the books you mentioned for relief, caricature and flat plane would very likely be done only with a knife and gouge.

I've done many carvings without sandpaper but most are sanded because I do mostly decoys and realistic. If your going to paint the carving and use Gesso Primer then 100 grit should be enough but if you are going to do a realistic like the carvings by Ian Norbury and have the grain show then he uses grits up to 320 and I assume Fred Zavadil uses at least 320 to get that look. Like Dan said, "to remove all of the scratches from the previous courser grit. It takes a lot of time and effort." is absolutely true.

One note about a finish, if you are going to use a clear wood finish on your carving you should use a clear sanding sealer first IMO, Lacquer based sanding sealer will turn the wood darker and bring out the grain but water based sanding sealer will not change the color very much, I prefer the darker look the lacquer based sealer gives the wood.

Some carvers will use water based acrylics thinned to a stain consistency and applied directly to the unsealed wood so the wood will soak the color in without hiding the grain, in a case like this I usually apply the sanding sealer between the color and clear protective finish.

Now this is how I do it and not all carvers will agree with this method but the thing is that you will need to find what works for you on the type of carving you are interested in, there are many different types of carvings represented on this forum.

Bill
^v^

[ocd]

If you are interested in how the texture will look after staining, etc, denatured alcohol will help you see "imperfections" in your surface. Especially true when held midway between you and a bright "raking" light that reflects off the surface. The alcohol evaporates quickly, and in my (brief) experience does not raise the grain, like many water based sanding sealers will.

Working through the grits is not that big a deal if you're organized about it; but you must be organized and orderly. If you do sand, the great advice I got was be sure there's no more carving to be done, as bits of sanding "grit" could concievably be deposited on the surface of the wood and foul your chisel/gouge, etc.

As has been said, carving marks say to someone a hundred years from now "Someone carved this by hand". I'm thinking that I'm going to be of the school that leaves the background of, say, and #2 gouge. I like texture and a handcrafted look. I'll be dead someday, and want to be remembered as diligent, not as a slouch. But, heck, someone will then say, "He was too lazy to sand this"......Oh, well.

Like Ricky Nelson said in "Garden Party": You can't please everyone, might as well please yourself. ocd.

[rales]

Facets Rule! The only times I'll use a very, very light sanding is to age the piece a bit - knocking back the sharp corners to simulate wood that's been handled for years - distressing it a bit.

[carvnman40]

I agree with Bill, that it does depend on the type carving you're doing. Most realistic bird carvers will tell you that you need a good smooth foundation to get the best surface for texturing, burning,etc.
My poor old, split fingers will attest to my belief in it.
Other types of carving, however, I believe may be best served by minimal sanding.
Mike

[William]

Here's an example of a natural finish on red and white cedar with no color added, just Lacquer sanding sealer and clear coat.

The one on the right was carved with knife and gouge (mostly gouge) no sanding at all and then sealed and clear coated.

The one on the left is made out of the same red and white cedar logs that the other one is but it will be sanded smooth and clear coated the same as the other one. Note how the Lacquer sanding sealer darkened the wood.

One thing about sanding, if you have a very "SHARP!!!" edge on your tools it will give you a sharp crisp look to the wood that would take a lot af sanding using paper up to a 600 grit to achieve, the secrete is sharp tools.

Bill
^v^

[D. Cardin]

Does anybody use a scraping tool (like a cabinet scrapper) to get a really smooth finish? I have seen it used to a great finish on other types of woodworking.

Dave