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| Wood Finishing and Painting | 
10-03-2007, 07:00 PM
| | Member | | Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 6
| | finish faux pas Normally I seal with a ten to one mix of clear auto laquer/thinner, then paint with acrylics when dry, then put an acrylic finish. Im working on a Maple walking staff and the darn acrylic finish stayed gummy and dull. I've sanded most of the finish off, but I think I have to get an acrylic remover to get the finish off the carved faces. My question is, after I do this what finish should I use on my project.  Thanks phodog | 
10-04-2007, 09:23 AM
|  | Moderator | | Join Date: Dec 1969 Location: Martinsburg WV
Posts: 3,308
| | Re: finish faux pas phodog,
It really depends on a couple of things. Where do you plan on using the stick? Is it functional or display? Will it be used in the rain or with water conditions?
a simple poly coat will work most of the time, but if it is to be used outside in the rain well , poly will turn white and cloudy. Tung Oil will give a hard finish , boiled linseed is great for water conditions .
Auto finishes while will work fine for some things, are not really made for wood and do not bind well in tight grained woods. I would assume the problem you having is that the moisture in the wood is sweating causing the moisture to remain in place between the wood and the finish. Auto finishes bind to themself and form watertight seals to protect the metal underthem. Wood needs to vent.
Gives us a bit more information and we will offer better suggestions .
Ash | 
10-04-2007, 10:11 AM
|  | Moderator | | Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Bessemer, MI
Posts: 4,198
| | Re: finish faux pas Ash is probably on the mark about the moisture content of your wood. If the wood is not dry to ambient conditions, very few finishes will take properly and hold. You may end up with tackyness, alligatoring, bubbles, milky appearance or any number of other problematic conditions.
I don't recommend boiled linsed oil as a finish for very much (personal preference) BUT it makes an excellent finish on "WORKING" walking sticks.
Here's my technique.....pretty standard. First remove all your old finish and make sure the stick is thoroughly dried and cured. Then hand rub on a coat of blo.....the more you rub, the better the penetration. Let this cure for several day, untill the surface is not tacky. I repeat this at least three times for a good finish. Be sure to let the oil cure thoroughly between applications. When done, you can rub this down with a soft cloth.. I use an old terry towell.
Now, the main reason I use boiled linseed on working walking sticks is that it not only holds up well to weather and abrasion, but if it gets nicked or scratched, I can put on another application or two right over the old finish, and the nicks, dents scratches, etc are GONE! That blo stuff has a real good self healing property. You just can't do that with varnishes or lacquers.
Her's another trick you can use to toughen up a working walking stick. This comes from some old woodsmen who needed their axe and maul handles to be able to stand up to the shock loads of woodswork without breaking. Yep, I really knew a few of these old time loggers who worked before the era of the chainsaw, let alone the feller bunchers~!
Drill a 1/4" hole in the end of the handle (or walking stick) the full depth of the drill bit, or about 2" to 3". Fill this hole with boiled linseed oil and put in a wooden plug to keep it from dribbling out. Pull the plug every few days and refill the hole with blo, till it stops soaking in. Or for about 3 or 4 applications. Finally tap that plug in good and tight and cut it off flush with the end of the handle or stick. The blo will soak into the capillary tubes in the wood, run the full length of the handle or stick, and imapart, just the right amount of resiliancy to the wood to help make it quite resistant to breakage.
Al | 
10-04-2007, 12:44 PM
|  | Wandering the West | | Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 156
| | Re: finish faux pas Great tip Al. Thanks !
Boiled linseed oil and tung oil was used to finish military rifles. Good stuff. I use tung oil to finish the walking sticks and then a final application of paste wax...FYI | 
10-04-2007, 04:30 PM
| | Member | | Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 6
| | Re: finish faux pas Thanks guys, I guess Ill try the tung oil/paste wax route. I want to put it in the Frankenmuth (Mi) carving show in a couple weeks. Again Thanks! | 
10-04-2007, 06:09 PM
|  | Wandering the West | | Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 156
| | Re: finish faux pas I apply a coat of tung oil, let it dry for a day, then "lightly" sand it (400 grit), then apply another coat. Each coat creates more "depth" in the finish. I do a minimum of 3 coats. This is for walking sticks/canes and not sure how well it works for detailed carving. I have done it on numerous species of woods with outstanding results.
Good luck ! | 
10-04-2007, 08:07 PM
| | Member | | Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 6
| | Re: finish faux pas Thanks Bill, Ill post a pic when it's done.  | 
10-04-2007, 08:09 PM
|  | Wandering the West | | Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 156
| | Re: finish faux pas Will look forward to seeing it phodog. !!!! | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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