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Wood Finishing and Painting | |||
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#1
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Okay all... my first piece in the round is Goody's Santa rough out... I think I did "ok" and am ready to paint.... that pine was rough on my newness and I could not get it to "smooth" out with the knife. Is it okay to sand it smooth now before painting? Also, when I go to paint... just do it on the raw surface... or is there any prep? Thanks, Sean |
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#2
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It is your piece, if you want to sand it, sand it. Pine will soak up the paint. You can either prep it with a coat or two of Deft Matte spray or Gesso it and then paint it. If you do either, use a wadded up piece of brwon paper sack to smooth it daown and then paint it. Pictures please!
__________________ God Bless Kenny I 'd rather live my life believeing in God and find out there wasn't a God than live my life without God and find out there is a God http://www.picturetrail.com/ken_sanders My WCI Gallery http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...00/ppuser/2326 |
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#3
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OK I was going to send this in as a tip to BobD (you paying attention Bob? lol, ohhh Bob, can you hear me above the chainsaw ringing in your ears ha ha) any way, I have been using miniwax sanding sealer and really don't care much for it for carvings, its very rough (I know, SAND)ha ha, but it also is a little difficult as it doesn't want to take acrylic paint readily, it will but not the way I like it.......so..I had at the same time I bought the sanding sealer bought a small can of prestain sealer.....that works great! the basswood was smoother when the prestain sealer dried that it was before I applied it, the paint went on exceptionally well and I can either put the paint on opaque or as a thin wash.....I am converting to minwax prestain sealer....... Dave
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#4
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Are you using the Minwax® Water-Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner--which is for water-based wood stains? http://www.minwax.com/products/woodp...r-prestain.cfm Because they also make the Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner which is for oil based stains. http://www.minwax.com/products/woodprep/prestain.cfm I just want to double-check. I am finally getting to the point where I will be painting some carvings so I have to brush up on what I need to know for using acrylic paints, etc. Thanks.
__________________ My Website: http://sites.google.com/site/whittlebears/ My Blog: http://whittlebears.blogspot.com/ |
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#5
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Depending on the final look you want, there's another train of thought on painting with water-based paints... Once your carving is finished, washed to get the any dirt and/or oil it's gotten off your hands, just go ahead an paint it without any kind of sealer. Of course, I like using thinned water-based paints and building coats of it to get the look I want. Lately, however, I especially like getting the carving wet with water first so that the dry wood doesn't absorb all the water from your paint so quickly. Once it's all painted and dried, I like to rub it down with brown bag technique--or lightly once-over it with a soft Scotchbrite pad, before applying the final finish. My final finishes run the gammut from a spray of Deft or lacquer, to wax, to another rubbing with the ole brown bag and then waxing it. I'm interested in the pre-stain treatment...must try that sometime soon. If I'm "antiquing" a painted carving, I usually put a spritz of lacquer over the face to keep it from getting to dark from the antiquing process. Donna T
__________________ Donna Thomas has been carving in SW Missouri since 1988... |
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#6
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The one I am using is not the waterbased....didn't even know they had water based! lol, might try it when this can is empty...only reason would be so I could swish the brush in water to clean it h aha.....this oil base works great, I like it a lot. Cowboy
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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