[Mike_B]

After putting an oil finish, such as walnut or a danish oil, or shoe polish, should the carving have a seal coat applied to keep it from drying out?

I've heard that oils or shoe polish need to be reapplied periodically to protect the carving, as they dry out or totally soak in or whatever..

[squbrigg]

Mike, I usually do this and I find it works for me. Apply oil, let set 20 min, apply another coat of oil, let set 40 min, wipe off excess oil, let dry 24 hours. Apply a paste wax, then buff when dry with a soft cloth or shoe brush, apply a second coat and buff again. Shoe polish.....same principal, only you don't need as long to dry before waxing. (Careful with your oily rags, wash them out and air dry them flat, before discarding them)Bob

[tbox61]

Mike,

I usually dip my carvings in Boiled Linseed Oil tinted with raw umber oil paint after I paint with acrylics. After that, I have used Johnson's past wax, clear Briwax, and have settled on using WATCO liquid satin wax as a final finish. I usually let the oil dry for 24-48 hours before waxing.

I apply the WATCO finish with a narrow brush, coating my carving fully, and let set for an hour. After that, I buff with a soft cloth. I got this tip from a professional relief carver I know who has tried everything. She felt that the liquid penetrated better, and gave her better coverage.

I just purchased a quart from her last week and it was about $12.00.

Hope this helps.

Tim

[Mike_B]

Thanks Guys,

I bought some Kerf's Wood and Furniture lotion.
I'll see how it works over my Walnut Oil.

[Hugh]

Hi, may as well get my two cents worth in. Not gospel for sure, but the above posts seem like a bit of overkill, but I bet it does a very nice job. When you seal your wood with danish oil, I use tung oil, it penetrates the wood, and displaces the water that evaporates and causes warping, thus splitting. The oil dries, and should not evaporate, so In my estimation the wood is sealed and you should be able to apply whatever finish you want after the oil dries suffiiciently. Bob idea of putting on the second coat of oil 20 mins after the first sounds like something I'll try. I let my first coat dry overnight, and there isn't much penetration to the second coat. I think I will try Bobs method of oiling. The wax sounds like a mega job, but nice. I don't mean this to argue with anyone, just my thoughts. If I had the energy, I would try them all.

[mdallensr]

I've started using clear Bri-Wax after tung oil on mahogany. It makes a huge improvement in the final appearance. The wax gives the right luster, not shine, and really gives a warmer look to the piece. I just tried a sample piece of walnut using the same combination and it wokrs just as well. Really brings out the grain without too much shine.

[Hugh]

Hi, the Bri-Wax, does it dry hard, do you buff it, just wondering how to handle the wax finish. I would like to try it.

[Hugh]

Went out and bought wax today. Applied it to a walking stick that I had finished. I like it, makes a great finish. Thanks