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| Wood Finishing and Painting | 
01-07-2002, 01:22 AM
|  | Midnight Carver | | Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Glen Daniel,West Virginia
Posts: 142
| | BLO Boiled Linseed Oil everything you will ever want to know I just got done putting the finishing touches on the paint on some carvings I'd done this fall and winter.My question is this.Does anyone know of anything other than Boiled Linseed Oil to put on them for the final coating?To me that stuff smells so bad I can't use it in my 8x12 studio in the house without it stinking up everything.Thanks in advance,for your answers, because by reading your posts and answers I know that their are some smart carvers and whittlers on here. Any and all answers would be greatly appreciated. | 
01-07-2002, 07:09 AM
| | Member | | Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Berks Co., PA
Posts: 44
| | Re: Boiled Linseed Oil  I haven't tried it, but I understand that Dave Sabol sometimes uses regular motor oil. Since I paint with acrylics I cannot verify how well this works, but it sounds like the paint would never completely dry. | 
01-07-2002, 04:02 PM
| | | Re: Boiled Linseed Oil I usually use a paste wax. I put it on with an old tooth brush then buff it with a soft bristled paint brush. | 
01-07-2002, 07:44 PM
| | | Re: Boiled Linseed Oil I sometimes use Deft semi- gloss, can't find the satin finish anymore. I really like the antique wax by Enviroment Friendly. It's water based, and doesn't put alot of shine on the wood.  | 
01-07-2002, 08:27 PM
| | | Re: Boiled Linseed Oil I used boiled Linseed Oil on a few walking sticks that i made and it didn't seem to stink too bad, but everyone's nose works different. My wife thinks mine don't work too well anyhow! One problem with the BLO is that is has to be re-applied every so often to maintain the protection. There is a Danish Oil (which I have never used) that may not smell as bad, but it also need to be periodically re-applied. I use the Deft satin finish spray, but is smell very strong and shouldn't be applied outside in damp or cold weather. The wax sounds like the safest and least smelly finish to use indoors. I found it hard to get good coverage in the detail of my carvings with it and you have to watch out for build up in the cracks. Maybe one of the spray waxes would be the answer? They don't smell bad and they should bring out the grain in the wood.
Good Luck ... | 
01-23-2002, 11:47 PM
| | | Re: Boiled Linseed Oil lBoiled Linseed Oil----I use this stuff as a filler after finishing cutting. Following that I paint with water sol. paints (cause it is easier to clean up) Lilnseed Oil and burnt umbr make a very good antiqueing solution. I have used it for years and find it easier to use than anything else I have used. One caution Linseed oil and burnt umber on raw wood will really go to work and darkent the wood a great deal. Over the filler and paint it just gives the carving a dull -- older look and I think a much better look. I do not like high gloss on my work. Applying this mixture takes some experience, so expermint. | 
01-24-2002, 05:37 PM
| | | Re: Boiled Linseed Oil Speaking of Wax-----Have you ever tried shoe polish???
I tried some Kiwa (? I think that is correct.) in neutral and tan over a linseed oil filler. It is very good and was suggessted by a good friend of mine. Try it you might like it. The neutral would work over paint. cheers | 
01-24-2002, 06:30 PM
| | | Re: Boiled Linseed Oil I've always liked the aroma of boiled linseed oil. I dunk my painted Santas in it and it 'antiques' them real nice. | 
01-26-2002, 12:00 AM
| | | Re: Boiled Linseed Oil :  Pineyknow----when you dunk your painted pieces in the linseed oil is it pure----you haven't added anything to the oil.
I use burnt umber mixed with linseed oil for antiqueing and that also works fine. charlie | 
01-26-2002, 10:23 AM
| | | Re: Boiled Linseed Oil I guess I should have added that I use aan acrylic burnt umber wash really dilute it and build with several washes before dunking. | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
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