What to apply over paint?

[squbrigg]

Thought I would pick your brain and benefit from your experience on this one folks. I have carved another cane, this one from Walnut (dark) and this time I have painted it using acrylics. It's a Bald Eagle. Turned out nice, but found the Walnut hard (not difficult, but physically hard) to carve. Thank God for the Foredom. As a cane it will have to be able to withstand the elements so I want to seal the paint well. What do I use? Would an oil finish darken it? Or do I apply several coats of verithane, or varnish?

Haven't finished carving/shaping the shaft yet, (just plain ) I'm doing that in Maple. I must be a sucker for punishment as it is as hard as a rock. Now I know why they sometimes refer to it as "Rock Maple".

I appreciate your help.

Bob

[AlArchie]

Bob there are several factors to contend with when finishing a cane. First, of course is making sure it will produce the final finishyou want (color?). I've used both BLO and Danish oil, and they both darken the final product some.

The spray, polys and lacquers usually do not change the colors, other than brightening up the acrylics. If the brighter color is what you want, then by all means use the spray finishes. Even the lacquers (Deft?) will not bother the acrylics, once they are dryed and fully cured. If you have used an oil or petro based paint, test a piece before applying lacquer, as some paints will blister or "alligator" if lacquer is applied over them. Most paints, acrylics included handle the polys and other varnishes well.

If you shop around and want a REALLY tough varnish, try to find a "bar-top" varnish. I used this stuff on a gun stock that I refinished in 1970, and this thing has been in the snow and rain and brush for every deer season since then, and has only one small scratch to show for all that wear. I believe a good grade marine deck varnish would hold up almost as well.

For my real "working" walking sticks, I personally prefer plain old boiled linseed oil. Firstly, it protects fairly well from the elements, and secondly when (not if) the stick gets banged up, or severely scratched, another wipe-down with some more blo, and the stick is as good as new. The re-application seems to heal all the wounds Mother Nature can hand out, without leaving any scars. A couple wipedowns with a day in between to dry, and all the dings, nicks, scrapes, and weathered portions are looking like new, with no sign of the damage.

And thirdly, the oil finish has a nice feel to it!

Al

[Colin-Partridge]

I would agree with Al on the spar varnish I have not tried that bar top stuff but I will definatly have a look for it.
Colin

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

I re-worked a walnut chair my father-in-law had, after sanding it all down, I sprayed in about4 or 5 times with Deft spray, it looks terrific.....if I were going to put on a stick, I would do the same, maybe spray a couple of times and sand to the finish I want , then spray poly over that, the poly is tougher I believe and will go right over the Deft lacquer.....I have done that to a number of sticks and they "shine, they really do! Waugh!" LOL

[AlArchie]

Shining stick??????? Don't they call that a FLASHLIGHT???

Al