I have a air brush, but don't no anything about the paint to use. I just started to carve and have some fish to paint but don't know what paint to use. I am looking for the easyest paint to use and some thing that is safe to use in the basement.

In Woodcarving Illustrated, the sponser of this site, spring edition 2002, there is an article starting on page 24 on carving and painting a rainbow trout.
On this project they used tempera poster paints for an undercoat stating that Palmer Prism Tempera paints do a much better job of covering imperfections than acrylic.
(their words not mine)
They also state that these paints can be applied one over the other but not mixed. After painting they gave the carving 3 to 5 coats of spray lacquer.
Just noticed that the first thing they did was apply 2 coats of GESSO before the undercoat.
If you don't have this issue I'm sure you can still order it
Good Luck and I hope this helps.

[pinefeathers]

Any type of paint can be airbtushed, but some are easier to use than others. For bird carvers I recommend Jo Sonja acrylics. These are actually a guache and are excellent in the airbrush. They dry to a flat finish with no gloss, but can be made glossy with the proper additives. Fish carvers usually prefer a more glossy look, and I have no suggestions. The article in WCI was done by a fish carver who has been carving fish longer than most of us have been alive. His painting method works for him, and there probably were no other paints available when he started carving fish.

[AlArchie]

I've used standard craft acrylic paints from the craft stores for doing my fish, although there are a few tricks I've learned the hard way. Â*

First, thin those paints down to the consistancy of regular milk, I know that leaves a lot of leeway, but hey, if you want to thin to 1%, that's OK with me.

Second, don't thin with water. Â*Go to an art store and get a thinning medium. Â*It looks like water, but has some mystical ingredient that mixes more thouroughly; Â*I think it's witch hazel myself ,but that could be mystical. Â*Besides if you get it in a larger bottle, it's really pretty cheap, and you won't use a whole lot anyway.

Third, and most important, before you put that colored concoction in your spray gun (ok air brush) make sure that you run it through a proper filter medium to remove any undisolved subatomic lumps, 'cuz they will clog your jets and give you fits.

Now, for mixing colors, and you will want to mix to get the exact shade you want, count the number of drops of each color you use into one of those small medicine cups. (you can get them at most drug stores in packs of a hundred for a couple bucks)
After thoroughly mixing with the thinning medium to the proper viscosity (runniness) pour the whole thing through one of your wife's (girlfiend's) or if you wear them yourself, your nylon stockings or panty hose. Â*This is a real fine mesh, and removes all the tiny lumps. Â*

They do make pre mixed taxidermy paints that would work really well, but are quite expensive, and I'm a tightwad!

These paints will dry a little darker than they are when wet, and the finish will be flat. Â*I finish with a semi-gloss or satin finish spray polyurethane , because I do the fish in a habitat, and fish IN the water, do not look shiny. Â*I've been critcized for not making them look slimy, but they really dont look slimy till you take them OUT of the water.

Artistically speaking, or marketability speaking, most other people prefer the real wet look of high gloss lacquer or varnish.

When you apply the final sealer,(gloss or whatever) the colors you want will virtually jump out of that flat acrylic paint, and your fish will look like he's ready to swim away. Don't be discouraged by the flat dull finish you have originally; Â*it will surprize and amaze you when you apply the gloss (satin) finish.

It'll take a bit of practice with the air brush, but hang in there, it doesn't take long. Â*You might want to do any spots or stripes with a dry brush technique if you have trouble with the paint blotching when you get in close. Â*You're probably coming on a bit strong with the trigger pressure.

Good Luck

Al

I carve reproduction fish and use airbrush paints that I get from a
taxitermy supply store. These paints are available in acrylic or lacquer
base and they also come in muted earth tones. Good luck

I guess I have more of a question than a reply. I have been carving for 2-3 years and have almost finished my bluegill I have been working on. I am not what I would call a real artist but I am very particular on how the end product looks. My instruction recommend using an airbrush to paint the fish. My questions are. It sounds like airbrushes can be alot of work and pain to use and clean. Are they worth the trouble? Are they hard to use? What would be a good brush and compressor to start with, without spending a lot of money?

[AlArchie]

I use both air brushes and brush brushes; whatever works best, and each has it's own advantages and disadvantaGES.
Fish do well with airbrushing and masking. It does take a little practice, but not a terrible amount.

I started with a cheap Chinese single action model that worked fine until it wore out, and I couldn't find parts; about two fish worth. then I discovered the double action type. I don't think the brand is particualrly important if you stick to the major brands.

In Michaels Craft store I found a nice double action model, marked as a (of all things) fingernail painting kit, for under a hundred bucks.

The main thing is to follow the directions for thinning the paint, and if you use acrylic, be sure to use a thinning medium, not plain water. I don't know what it is, but believe me it makes a difference, and you can find that in the art stores, by the pint for a reasonable price. Smaller bottle, bigger price! also be sure to strain the paint through either a special filter medium or a nylon stocking. This get those little microscopic clogging buggers out.

Al

Now I know why I can't airbrush xxx been thinning with water and haven't been straining xxx double stupid xxx time to dig the ol pasch out of the dust heap and try again.

[AlArchie]

Also, when you're done with one color, run a cup of plain water mixed with a drop of dishwashing solution through the thing. This will break up any dried on acrylic. Then a cup (paint cup) of plain water. Pull the nozzle and check for build up on the needle. If there is any, carefully wipe it with a soft cloth to remove the residue. This will keep ya paintin and not cussin! there is also a lubricating solution available that I run through before I put it away. WD-40 works as well, but make sure ya run some dishwashing solution through before painting the next time.

Al

[Bandaid]

I read an article some time ago where the author suggested using Windex to thin acrylic paints for use in airbrushes. I don't have a brush but was curious if any of you tried this or have any comments. I wonder what the effect would be if it was used in conventional painting. ???