Swiss Army Kinfe

[hobnob]

Greetings everyone. Just joined the forum and I'm interested in more serious whittling. Bought the" Little Book of Whittling" by Chris Lubkemann today at Woodcraft. He uses a Swiss Army Tinker Model for all the projects in the book, and says he has been using it exclusively for several years. I wanted feedback from folks that have been in it awhile. Are pocket knives a viable option?

I would prefer not to use power tools. I'm flexible and would consider a set of Flexcut Knives. Any thoughts?

[Ron T]

Hello and welcome, hobnob.

The Flexcut knives are preferable to using pocket knives, especially for beginners as they can fold on you in certain circumstances. You will enjoy using the Flexcuts. Do learn how to strop and sharpen them as needed.

[stub]

Hello Hob
I have never tried to carve with a swiss army knife, but like Ron I would be very careful and don't let it fold up. I have two Flexcut knives and I like them both,very sharp right out of the package, and they hold an edge very well.

[AlArchie]

I don't often use my Swiss Army knife for carving, but I always have it with me and have found it a great tool for "on the go" carving and whittling. And I honestly don't understand that fear of a pocket knife folding up on you. I've used pocket knives of all sorts, shapes and sizes since I was around 5 (68 now) and can't remember one ever folding on me. The only lockback I ever owned was a Cub Scout pocket knife.

That's not saying it can't happen so if you are uncomfortable with a folder get a fixed blade or a lockback.

I have a close friend who does ALL his carving with a Finnish puukku (Finn for knife) and he does excellent work. The sheath knife is always at his side on his belt and is handy when he needs it.

Another aquaintance carves with a 4" drop point sheath knife.

I guess what I'm trying to say is that whatever knife you find handy can make for good carving.

Al

[Nomad]

That's an unusual looking puukko Al. Do you have any more information on it?

And I agree with you on the slips. I use them all the time for nearly everything, including carving wood.

[Bob K.]

I personally prefer carving with a fixed blade knife like the Flexcut, although there are lots of carvers out there that use pocket knives, or both. It's really a matter of personal choice.

[MackTheKnife]

I, like many others, consider a pocket knife to be an expert's tool, but, what the hey! I started carving with a pocket knife some 50-odd (VERY odd) years ago. Though, unlike AlArchie, I have had them fold up on me. I was only cut once, and every time they folded it was when I wasn't paying sufficient attention to what I was doing, or I was trying to force something.

I have also read Lubkeman's books. You should make note that he has modified his knives for carvings, changing the edge geometry and even the blade profile a little. I have done that to a couple of SAKs and like them for short periods of "pick-up carving". But you do have to be careful with the edge geometry. Get the edge too thin and it will roll on you, especially as found wood tends to be "variable" in quality. If that happens, usually putting on a micro bevel will usually take care of the problem.

In short (too late for that!), use what you like and feel comfortable with. There is an old saying, "Beware the man that only owns one gun." The same can be said for a knife.

[ajcoholic]

I also use several pocket knives (both stock and blades modified) for carving/whitling. I use my old metal scale Swiss Army knife for rough whitling when I am out and about, have had the knife since I was 15 (since the mid 80's) and always keep the blade razor sharp.

I have a few others, some Case, and other quality (but not necessarily expensive) folders. Something about a nice pocket knife really appeals to me.

As for folding up, I too dont understand as I have never had it happen. I am always cutting forward, so the blade wants to remain open... I guess if you are stuck and pull on the handle funny it might fold up? Don't know as it has never happened to me.

I have that book, and his second - and have tried to whittle sticks into flowers, etc. You dont sharpen the blade the same way as you do for regular carving (flat) or the shavings wont curl up. Read the book, it explains it well.

The nice thing about buying a tinker or similar, is it is a very cheap investment ($15 to $20) and you wont be out a lot of cash if you later find you dont use it exclusively. Just my opinion, but you can never have too many pocket, or fixed blade knives!

AJC

[RUssL.]

Ever since reading Chris Lubkemann's books a couple of years ago I have made a Swiss Army Knife, Tinker model, my pocket knife of choice.
I modified the smaller blade as per Chris' suggestions, strictly for carving, and use the bigger blade and other tools for for general use.
Without having to burden my pockets with two (or more) carving utinsels I can whittle whenever I want and yet have the heavier blade and tools for general utility.
It's a compromise, but a good one.
I have tons of other carving tools and jackknives but the SAK is with me always.

[hobnob]

Thanks everyone for the help. I'll give the Tinker a try initially, then if I see a need, move onto the Flexcut. Question to AJ and RUssL, Is it necessary to modify the blade? It looks like Lubkemann' s is more pointed on the pen blade. Can I use a stone to reshape and change the bevel. Would some other method be preferred?