[davidinsarasota]

Great thread, Marks long comments give a lot of info while also letting me get a feel for how a talented carver's mind works. The responses from others are equally valuable in giving a broader view, providing me with alternative methods and ideas to try.

I started, and have stuck with full size Swiss tools because they feel so good to me. When I have accidentally rapped the handle against the vice they 'sing' like a tuning fork. To me this springiness indicates a coherent unit.

That said, my most recent purchase, a 1/20 flat chisel came very sharp, but with the dreaded micro bevel at the tip. It cuts nicely, so I haven't re-ground it yet, just strop it, apparently way to often compared to what others do, but I swear they all cut better post stropping.

[BRIAN D]

This thread may have run it's life but as I have read most of Marks posts, I like to learn.
Mark the one thing not touched upon is I find when I sharpen,I tend to feather out, polish (tapper) the heal or sharpened edge as I goback to original surface, to make it move thru the wood smoother, what do you feel works for you?

[mark yundt]

Yes Brian,,I believe you are correct. I had adressed this on another post where I made a reference to an icecream scoop.

If you keep the bevel flat,,that is from edge to heel where it then transitions into the shaft of the chisel I find the tool does not cut nearly as well as if it had a slight belly to it. Or in the very least,,kill the sharp angle there. The tool now has a better shape to more easily "scoop" though the wood as well as still have the ability to make nice long passes should you choose.
This also was part of the problem with my new tools as they were sharpened from the factory. When I carved with them that way they seemed one dimensional, I couldnt' maneuver them the way I needed to.
Also,,using a cloth buffer tends to lend itself to this happening as well.

[BRIAN D]

Thanks! Mark