[JesusLovesYou]

I am a beginner relief carver and this is my favorite tool for getting rid of wood quick. It has become dull and almost pushes the wood instead of shaving it. I have the large leather wheel from flex cut. But, I'm not doin it right or it isn't working. I have it on a cordless drill. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and May God Bless You,
Thomas

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

if you have a piece of very fine sandpaper, look at "scary sharp" on the web...and then you need a strop, but with each of them you have to keep the same angle as the bevel is on the cutting edge. With a gouge you also have to roll it as you are pulling it across the sandpaper or strope....not sure this makes sense to you.....if nothing else works...send it to Rick at littleshavers and for 2.00 it will be like new...lol

[Kenny_S]

??????????? If you have a power strop as you say, Be carefull of the angle you hold it to the wheel. By the rust on edge you are not stropping the edge correctly or it would be shiny like a polished finish. Are you using any compound???
Al else fails, do what Dave(HI HO) said, send it to Rick.

[JesusLovesYou]

Thanks for the replies. I might try using the fine sand paper then stropping it again. I'm assuming you sharpen both sides. Is this correct?

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

sharpen the outside....for the inside, I just draw it thru my flexcut block that is formed for the different gouge shapes...and thats only to remove any wire edge that maybe there from sharpening....normally just stropping the outside of the gouge will keep it sharp unless you ding it

[JesusLovesYou]

I also have the stropp that is made for all the gouges. Maybe that is what I need to use. I'm not sure I understand what your saying. Do I need to sharpen the inside of the curve over the strop that is shaped for it? Sorry, I'm very unlearned when it comes to this.

[AlArchie]

Sharpening and stropping that gouge will be somewhat of a "personal preference" type thing. Some carvers like to put a small 5 degree or less micro bevel on the inside, and some insist on keeping the inside perfectly straight against the cutting edge. I like keeping mine straight, so I've made several different diameter strops from dowels wrapped in leather. The large diameter ones I just wrapped a flat piece of leather to the dowell and glued it there. For smaller diameter 1/2" and less, I spiral wrapped leather boot laces around the dowells and glued it in place. These can be held flat agains the inside and dragged toward the edge to polish the inside curve.

I also use some of the various sized round and tapered ceramic slip stones for truing the inside prior to stropping. These are held on the inside and slid in towrd the edge, being careful not to put a micro bevel on the inside.

A regular few strops on the outside and a few inside will keep those gouges singing. BUT, you have to get them sharp, first.

Al

[Mitchell]

Sharpen the side pictured on the right (of the two that you supplied).

[JesusLovesYou]

Thanks for the replies. Is there anything I can buy at Wal-mart that will sharpen them.

[dart]

I would use 000 steel wool to get all the rust off then use 150 grit emory cloth to start an edge and finish with a honing stone. The leather wheel on your drill may not be revolving fast enough to do much for you.