[James A]

I am new to carving and was wondering if the Scary Sharp sharpening system can get your tools just as sharp as stones and strops.

[Mitchell]

Yes....it just a matter of personal preference.

[Mitchell]

Use the "search" function or look at the Similar Threads links below to find previous discussions on the "Scary Sharp" system. It works great for some folks as does the traditional stone and strop method.


I use a belt sander for sharpening..... the sanding belt for grinding and a leather belt for honing. Works fine for me.

[redbird46]

James, I only use my diamond stones,etc. whenever I need to shape a new tool or if one is badly damaged. You can go to www.onlineindustrialsupply.com and buy wet or dry silicon carbide paper in all grades by the box for a lot less than by the sheet at the auto supply or hardware store. If you get something under the paper (I use my large ceramic bench stone but some others use a thick piece of smooth edge glass) you can first work with the 600 grit then move to the 1500 grit and finish with the 2500 grit and then strop. This will give you the sharpest edges. I also use some power to strop/polish but really use the paper much more than stones. You can strop gouges and v-tools using cardboard rubbed with rouge. Just save your cereal/cracker boxes and cut them open to use the inside to strop your tools.
Hope that helps, Norb

[Plain_Ol_Ed]

Personal preference is the only difference.

I prefer a couple of small stones because I whittle on the go a lot. At the golf course on a slow day while I'm waiting to hit. On the tailgate of the truck while SWMBO is shopping. Just sitting on a log or rock out in the woods. While I'm fishing, gives me something to do while I'm waiting for the fish not to bite. I'll strop on anything handy. A belt, cardboard box (non-corrugated), trousers, etc.

At home, I've recently switch to a couple of ceramic stones. For stropping, I use either a home made leather strop or the buffer.

[cats pa]

Originally Posted by James A

I am new to carving and was wondering if the Scary Sharp sharpening system can get your tools just as sharp as stones and strops.

Yes, but...

Depends on what tools you're sharpening, and how much hassle it takes you to set up. I'm thinking of gouges, or bent knives, you'd need a shaped backing surface.

Also, the initial cost of sandpaper is cheap, but you wear it out, so it's a continual cost. With stones, or even a power hone, you buy them once and then you have them forever.

Give scary sharp a try, you'll like the results, but it might not be the last sharpening method you'll ever want.

Just my pair-o'-lincolns,

Parker

[mark yundt]

Had only heard about the scary sharp system once I started hanging around WCI. So like anything else I do ,,I had to give it a try. It worked O.K. but will not make it my go to system to sharpen anything on a full time basis. I'll stay with my stones and buffer. For me it's faster and more accurate,less fuss no mess,,don't have to have all the sheets of paper around. Like I said,,it worked,,but too much hassel for how I like to work,what I like to see and the control I can have.

[James A]

That is a good point about the hassel of using the Scary Sharp system. I have been thinking lately about trying to use the 3 in 1 sharpening system that Bass Pro and Cabellas carry. Has anyone ever used this sharper? The way that the stone rods that come with it looks, you could use them to get into the inside of most gorges and v-tools.

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

Originally Posted by James A

I am new to carving and was wondering if the Scary Sharp sharpening system can get your tools just as sharp as stones and strops.

YEP!...................lol

[mark yundt]

Pretty much any system will work. It all depends on what you get used to and suits your style and or budget.

Speaking of sharpening,for the first time in I don't know how many years I actually bought a few new chisels.Were they sharp? Well..Swiss does a pretty nice job making a chisel as well as having it reasonably sharp from the factory,,,,though not that bad,,they weren't what I'd consider really good...let alone great. I personally don't like the angles they used. I don't like the way they leave the angle pretty much flat across the back of the tool as well. I don't like the way the outside edges were left almost square to the edge of the tool. I didn't like the way the shafts were prepared. And I didn't like the new handles. A few minutes on the grinder to get a decent bevel,,A bit of time on a stone to get the radius I like as well as feather the bevel into the sides ( makes the tool infinitely more useful) a bit of 220 on the shanks ,,,,and took a belt sander to the handles to make a better contour to them and get them sized just to where they used to be. Then hit the whole thing with a buffer and a couple of coats of poly on the handles. This wasn't just one tool,,it was all of them,,now they work just fine.

My point,,, and why did I go through this on a new tool?You just do what you have to do to get the results you want,,whatever that may be. Initially new carvers are distracted by all the different ways to do something,,especially sharpen a tool. Over time you get a feel for what works for you,,,you know what to look for,,and whatever method does it,,,use it.The wood doesn't care what system you used,,it'll only tell you if the tool you're using is sharp enough.