[xsailer]

I just got thru sharpening my Denny knife that had the pointed end cutting edge curving away from the rest of the straight cutting edge. Lots of ways to correct it but I'm finding the best for me is sandpaper on a smooth surface. Now I've got several "good" methods available to me for sharpening but for accuracy and to help eliminate quickly damaging further the knife cutting edge I'm finding Scary Sharp more and more helpful.

Just a comment.

[Plain_Ol_Ed]

I guess that's why there's many methods. Gives everybody a chance to find out what works best for them.

[Kenny_S]

Bob, I have started using the sand paper and I guess it is a form of scary sharpining system. Not on a hard surface but a very thin rubber backing. OLne sid eis 600 grit and the other side 2000 grit. The rubber backing is on a 1 x 2 x 12 inch board. Seems to work great. Now to repair a blade I still use the diamond hones.

[xsailer]

Kenny,
I have 4 different grits of black sandpaper thru 1200 glued on a sheet of thick glass. Yes it sounds the same as your method. I also use a diamond stone for aggressive work and will continue to as I will the several motor driven wheels I use also. I think for me the unmovable, hard surface and slower methodolgy allows more precise adjustments for knives. At least for me. I really like the wheels for handling my gouges. It's the knives I want to have better control of.

[Thomp]

there are many ways to achieve a reconditioned edge, its best long term to try them all, learn them properly and choose which is right for the situation.

not all sharpening practices are always practical
carrying around a sheet of glass with 4 sheets of wet dry to carve meetings is not easy, being cumbersome and fragile, but fine for home-shop use..

but at a 3 hour meeting you shouldn't need stones.
but making room for a few strips of wet dry, and a small hone wouldn't hurt...
credit card sized diamond stones work great for removing more steel faster like in repair of a nick chip or tip break off, but remember the more aggressive grit makes bigger scratches in the surface if the edge that will have to be removed with finer grit abrasives

meaning, if you use a 80 grit abrasive, you need to follow it up with 120 grit then 600 to achieve a smooth edge,

if you just use 80 grit stone then go straight to hone, you may start to notice white lines in the wood especially when cutting end grain of the wood, this is dull spots, so if you follow sharpening with finer abrasives you will remove the deeper scratches of the preceding grit

power sharpening the idea is to keep the tool cool as you remove steel, to keep the tools temper, time and paintence will win out, theres really no way to rush a good sharpening job