Roughout knife

Blake Lunsford · #1 01-10-2006, 10:29 AM

I am working on a Caricature from Pete LeClair's book called Caricature Carving from Head to Toe. He instructs you on how to carve a caricature from scratch without using a band saw.

I wondered what kind of knife that most of you use on caricatures when you are doing rough out work? I have a couple of knifes but they just don't seem to do the trick, and before I invest in other knifes, I wondered what you recommended! I want to make sure I get tools that are goind to do what I need them to do.

Thanks!!
Blake

Plain_Ol_Ed · #2 01-10-2006, 10:54 AM

Here's my line up (top to bottom): Modified Mini-Trapper pocket knife, modified Kershaw double cross pocket knife (available from Little Shavers), home made razor knife. The shadows, camera angle, or something makes them look like there's a hook to the blades, but they are perfectly straight (the cutting edge that is).

I think you'll fine almost everybodys preferences vary. I like the longer knives and I just kind of choke up on the blade, sometimes hold it like a pencil for fine detail.

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #3 01-10-2006, 11:13 AM

are the second blades modified on the trapper and kershaw?

Mitchell · #4 01-10-2006, 11:25 AM

I use a variety - depending on the size of the carving. Pete uses a longer blade (>2"), but roughs with the bottom (?) of the blade - near the handle....

I generally use a straight blade with some backbone - not much flex - similar to what Ed has posted, but "fixed". I also have a nice knife with a little upsweep that I use frequently. The bigger concern is why your current knives aren't working correctly for you. I don't think there is a particular brand or manufacturer that is "best" for roughing. It is more a matter of personal preference.

For roughing, I really lean towards gouges first - an Ortel V for blocking out and a flatter (#3, 5 or even #7) gouge for removing "chunks". I then get out the knives to shape the carving a little more.

Blake Lunsford · #5 01-10-2006, 11:31 AM

That may be where my problem lies. I am trying to block out, chunk, and do the pattern all with a knife instead of relying on the V tools and gouges to remove the majority of the wood. I'm still working on my sharpening method also, so that could be a big part of it.

I plan on purchasing some knives this weekend, so I will probably look at the helvie and Denny knives. I am also going to check with Rick and see what he recommends.

Thanks Plain_ol_Ed for the pics and suggestions and Mitch for your suggestions. As aways, they are greatly apprecited!!

Blake

Mitchell · #6 01-10-2006, 11:34 AM

These are my favorite:

http://woodcarvingillustrated.com/fo...achmentid=2431

I will try to post a few alternates when I get home tonight (time permitting) with some comments.

I haven't tried the Denny, but all should be good. Ralph Long in Winston Salem NC makes some good knives. Ralph will most likely be in Charlotte next month. I think Rick carries some of his knives too. He (Rick) could give you good advice.

One more addition: Look at the similar threads links below... There were some discussions on rough out knives there.

Plain_Ol_Ed · #7 01-10-2006, 12:17 PM

Hi-ho: On the mini-trapper I just modified the primary blade, left the spey alone and use it for opening boxes and normal knife stuff. Rick modified both blades on the Kershaw.

Bob_in_TN · #8 01-10-2006, 01:17 PM

If you're removing much wood, I would agree with Mitchell, get out the heavy equipment! I had one instructor say, "If he could, he would use dynamite".

Seriously, the Ortel V (as Mitchell mentioned) works great, or the Flexcut Soft V(same type of tool) works great.

For knives, I like my Helvies, Dennys, Ron Wells. Any of those plus many others that have a little "beef" to them will work. When I have the big chunks removed, I usually switch to Lyons, or a Ron Wells that I modified.

Hope this helps
Bob

Mark N. Akers · #9 01-10-2006, 04:41 PM

Blake:
I am very partial to the Ron Wells 2 1/4" knife for roughing-out but I also agree
with Mitchell try and do as much as you can with a Ortel V gouge you then don't have any sharp angles to go back and blend out.It is easier to change a
cut made with a V gouge then it is with a knife.I am myself doing one of the
carvings from the same book but I started with a block 13/4"x13/4"x12" I
rough-out last night without the bandsaw althought I did look over at it
a couple of times and wondered why.I just said to get the whole affect
try it as the book Pete did it.

Blake Lunsford · #10 01-11-2006, 10:11 AM

I wanted to carve one for the experience and actually started with a piece that was about the same size. I'm sure it won't turn out quite as good as Pete's are in the book, but I definitely wanted the experience so I would know what it takes to create a piece from start to finish. I am now working on roughing out the upper body and that's where I ran into problems because of all the wood that you have to get rid of. I will probably go the band saw route the next time, but I am enjoing what is coming out of that block. I guess that is part of the fun!! I would recommend that book to anyone interested in carving caricatures!

Thanks for your suggestion on the knives. I will check into them and will also look at the ones in Charlotte next month!

Blake