[Callynne]

Is that what I need? I have a Jet bandsaw, it's a great saw, only problem is, it didn't come with any kind of a guide, pusher, whatever you would call it, for holding and guiding the wood in to cut very straight pieces of wood.

I think that's what I need, but I'm not sure and the store I got my saw from is out of business now.

I was checking out accessories in my new Woodcraft catalog and saw they have them in there. Oh yeah, and while I'm bothering everyone....what the heck is a 6" riser block?? Thanks! Deborah

[BobD]

Deborah,
Rip fences for a bandsaw are a cinch to make. If you saw doesn't come with one, I wouldn't pay the price they are asking for one! Let me know if you'd like a sketch!

Bob

[Bob_in_TN]

I usually don't use a fence, find that grain of wood, blade being used, and a few other things all determine if you get a straight cut. I use a 1/2" or 3/4" blade if I'm trying for a straight cut.

Riser block- It goes in the frame of your saw, install once and it stays there. It increases the capacity of your saw from top to bottom. I think you can cut a 6 or 6 1/4" block now, it would increase that to 12 or 12 1/4". Keep in mind that you will have to buy all new blades, 12 inches longer.

Hope this helps and that I didn't confuse you, it's still early for an old man.

Bob

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

I have a Ridgid and bought the fence and square when I got it, I don't use the square as much as I should but Ido use the fence quite a bit.....as for a riser, you have to be cutting or resawing some pretty big stuff to require it, I have never needed a riser and wouldn't want to throw away good blades either, like was said you have to buy larger blades......

[Callynne]

Thanks guys, I knew you'd know the answers!!

BobD, I'd love it if it's something I can make up, save me $99.00 plus shipping and handling!! Please, send me the sketches!! Thanks!!

My saw (and me) cut pretty straight but not perfect. The real problem is when I want to make a really straight cut, it's just a little wavy looking here and there no matter how slowly I cut. I thought if I had something to brace it up against, that would help eliminate that.

I thought that might we what a riser block was, sounded like it but I didn't see how it would work. There are times I wish my saw was bigger but it's not often. Not worth chaining the blades, hubby bought me a couple when he bought the saw, still using the orginial one that came with it.

Thanks again for the advice...and in advance for the sketches, BobD! Deborah

[AlArchie]

Not to muddy the waters, BUT, here comes the mud. Unless your saw is set up perfectly, and you have a really good blade that still has the proper tooth "set", even with a great fence, it will be very difficult to get straight cuts on that bandsaw. The darn things are notorious for blade "wander" or "drift". Simply stated the blade will start to cut to one side and either open up the width of your stock or jam in toward the fence, causing the blade to stall.

Some folks have figured out just how much the saw "drifts" and adjust the fence to an angle to accomodate the drift. There is also a radiused semi-fence that allows you to run a pencil line along the wood you are cutting and then, by eye, guide the stock through the blade to achive a straight cut.

If you have a high end saw and a high end blade, you will have less trouble, but don't be suprised to find these long rip cuts difficult, even with the best equipment.

Al

[BobD]

I was going to suggest a "pivot" style fence--basically it's just a rounded off 1x4 that points towards the blade from the side. That way you can adjust your cut easily (pivoting back and forth)

Bob

[squbrigg]

Straight cuts are a challenge to get with a band saw, unless you are willing to pay a lot for a saw. I did a lot of research before I bought my saw, because that was one of the key factors I wanted in a saw and eneded up going for a Laguna. Expensive, but cuts straight as a ruler. The nice thing about the company as well was they send a video on how to set up your saw properly to get straight cuts. Setting up a saw is an art in itself, and not all saws are capable of holding it.

Good luck.

Bob

[Anthony Filetti]

I have to echo Al's comments, its all about the se3tup and quality. Rip fences for bandsaws were designed for a process called "resawing", which essentially is ripping the wood to a different thickness.

Along with the setup, you need to pay attention to how you feed the wood, if you try and feed the wood too fast the blade will tend to wnader, as my old man would say "let the saw do the work".

It should also be mentioned that the power of the motor driving the saw and/or the sharpness of the blade are also factors in this equation.

<end of my 2 cents...>

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

A "Top Saver" kit helps the blade also, it has several bottles of cleaners besides the top saver, one removes the pitch and buildup from the bandsaw blade and another is called "Opticut" which mades the blade cut better...imho I see the kits are cheap now, about 10.95 depending on the supplier you buy from.