[jhogan]

I've been carving basswood and would like to work with walnut and holly. Can anyone tell me the correct bevel for my tools? Currently I keep everthing sharpened to about 15 degrees.
Thanks,
John

[AlArchie]

John, you may get several different responses on this.....who knows? BUT, I would not change the angle of your tools one iota.

Let's say you went to a 17 to 20 degree bevel. That would be a bit stronger when carving harder wood, and you would probably have to strop a bit less than with your 15 degree angle.

That's the positive of the increased angle. The negative is that you will have to use a proportionately higher force to make those cuts. The steeper the angle the more force required......simple physics. Just like going up a hill....the steeper the hill, the harder you will have to push.

So unless you are planning on carving only hardwood, why mess with a blade that works well in both materials.

Al

[jhogan]

Seems like a trade off that may not be worth the effort unless I plan to move away from bass permanenlty. Thanks for the comment; I see your point.
John

[cats pa]

John, you could hone a 17 or 20 degree microbevel on one or two knives and try it out, but it will probably depend on how you make your cuts. I have a similar situation with cedar vs. maple. I have a knife honed to 12 that I only use lightly on cedar - the last one broke when I tried to twist it through an alder knot (I had it tempered waaay too tight). Fortunately, it only took me 3 hours to make a new one, and it was better, and now I'm smarter.

Also, depends on what tools we're talking about. A hook knife, you'll really notice the angle - with a stout chisel a couple extra mallet swats won't matter compared to fracturing an edge. I always sharpen my narrow chisels to a steeper bevel than my wide ones, because the same amount of impact is concentrated in a smaller section of wood. I've sharpened mortise chisels to 45 degrees, and they still cut, although the backthrust is greater.

Seems to me, if you're gentle with your tools, you can use more acute bevels, tempered harder, whatever the wood. If you think you'll treat them forcefully, than steeper bevels and less hardness is the way to go. Nothing that says you can't have both kinds, of course, just remember which is which.

FWIW, I've got a cool little angle guage and when I regrind a tool, I like to put on a pc of blue tape with the degree. Saves me having to find the angle guage and measure all the time...

Parker