[Mischief]

I just need something to make holes to put a dowel in to join limbs/parts on my carvings. Don't want to use a power tool just yet. Anyone know what I should get in terms of a push drill ( like should I avoid those craft ones like Fiskar or should I go with those Yankee brand type? and where can I get one.....err asides from Amazon.com. My carving are not so big. At most 6 -8 inches

[Lynn O. Doughty]

A push drill while handy to have won't give you an evenly drilled hole as a drill with a motor. If you already have a Dremel then just use a 1/8" drill that can be chucked into the collet and then use 1/8" wooden dowels to join any pieces.

[AlArchie]

Not familiar with the Fiskars, but have had an old style "Yankee" for years. It's right in my carving box. No power, No problem. but like Lynn said, it's not as precise as a small bit in a Dremel or the like.

For the price of a Yankee, you can get a small battery powered 1/4" or 3/8" drill. For precision pick up a set of brad point drill bits. You should be able to find a 1/8" through 1/2" set for under 20 bucks.

For a neat, burr free hole, run the brad point "backwards" or in reverse to score the surface before you switch the drill's rotation to forward. This will give you a clean entry hole with no tear-out.

But I'll still keep and use the old Yankee in my carving box...sort of a utilitarian/nostalgic connection tothe past.

Al

[Just Carving]

An egg beater drill might be easier than a push drill. I think even x-acto makes one that you can use. Otherwise if you look around you might be able to pick one up cheap at a flea market or yard sale.

[Plain_Ol_Ed]

I use a #11 Stubai works fine. Just push and twist at the same time. It's almost like they were designed for it.

[Gulf Coast Handyman]

Garrett Wade

Dave

[Claude]

I would advise against the push-type drill for small wood carvings. If you are building furniture, fine, but not for a 6 inch tall caricature. First, you need to hold the wood very securely, and then you need to push hard on the drill. The push-type drill has a strong spring inside you have to work against. While slightly better, the egg-beater style also requires three hands to operate: one (or more) to securely hold the wood, one to hold the drill handle, and one to turn the crank. By far the easiest and most controllable is an inexpensive electric drill with some brad-point bits. Easy to use with only two hands, and if the drill is variable speed, easy to control the drilling action. Here's an example of one:
9.6-Volt Cordless Drill/Driver with Keyless Chuck

There are many more out there, some cheaper and a lot that are more expensive. Go to your local home improvement store/hardware store/or XXXX-Mart and look them over. You won't regret it.

Claude

[squbrigg]

Perhaps what you are thinking about is a Pin Vice, ship modellers use them all the time, with so many small pieces to attach. They are used one-handed and will take a variety of drill sizes, very small ones to be sure, and usually have several different heads for the various range of sizes.

Here's an assortment of the ones that I use.

Bob

[Mischief]

Yes Yes thats the one. Will I face the the same problems as with the push drill? Some of my carvings are like 2''. How big or small does the drill bits go? Where can i get one?

[AlArchie]

You should be able to find a simple pin vice in most any hardware or art supply store. Most come with at leasy 3 collets; one in the barrel and two stored in the handle. If you can drill a hole with a human hair, there is a collet that will hold it. Usually will accomodate a bit up to 1/16". Some may even be larger.

Looks like Bob has found at least one with a helical push mechanism. Where'd you find that one, Bob?



Al