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Woodcarving Tools, Technology & Sharpening | |||
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#1
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No, it isn’t as bad as it sounds. Many years ago in a class in Montana, Steve Prescott (Fort Worth) suggested I play with my tools to learn what each could do besides cut their own profile. This simple suggestion has helped me improve my carvings and reduced the number of tools I must have to complete a carving. Knowing what a tool can do is enlightening, an example is the V-tool; it can do much more than cut a V. The textures it allows you to create are nearly endless; lean a V to one side or other to change the angle of the cut. Incised cuts are quick and clean with a V-tool. Cutting-in your pattern with a V-tool gives you permanent reference lines. A large sharp V-tool may replace the knife for many cuts, resulting in cleaner cuts with less effort and fewer cuts. I could go on and on talking just about V-tools, but that is getting off the subject. Spend some quality time with your tools; get some scrap basswood and try new cuts without any concern that you might mess up a carving; you may be surprised by what they can do. |
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#2
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Correct Rick. I just started this year using the V tool for more than just texturing. Even old dogs learn new tricks. Regards,
__________________ God Bless Kenny I 'd rather live my life believeing in God and find out there wasn't a God than live my life without God and find out there is a God http://www.picturetrail.com/ken_sanders My WCI Gallery http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...00/ppuser/2326 |
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#3
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Good point. I have a few pieces of flat board that are full of practice V grooves, gouge grooves, florals etc. I usually try my edges out on a scrap piece after sharpening to make sure the edge is good.
__________________ CHEERS.... Harley |
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#4
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I started doing this by accident, with both v tools and gouges. One tool that I have really enjoyed using lately and discovering it has many uses is the Denny "Ortel" V tool.
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#5
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I'm glad you brought this up Rick, I've been afraid to ask how to use two of those tools that came with the beginners kit. I've been afraid to play with them in fear I'm using them wrong and will ruin them. I think one is called a skew? and the other is flat and straight on the edge. I'm not sure on how they are used on a carving. Are they meant to be tapped with a hammer or something? |
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#6
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I agree with Mel and find the Ortel V very versatile. A little hint, tip - or at least something to think about - turn a gouge over and use it "upside down" for cheeks, noses (bridge and nostril "wings"), etc. This may sound simple, but you'd be surprised at how many have not tried it. The key is to start out with the thought of trying new techniques. Too many times "we" revert to tried-and-true methods because we are afraid of messing up a carving. |
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#7
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Marci, Almost all sets include a Skew and Chisel; while they are not my favorite tools, they are included in sets for a couple reasons. First, they are simple to manufacture, so that helps keep the price of a set down. If you compare tool set prices, you will find those without skews and chisels are much more expensive. Second, Skews and chisels have a function in many carving styles; although they are most advantageous in relief carving. What is their purpose? Their main use is in creating "stop cuts". Up 'til now you probably have been using your knife for this instead of chisels. Using a knife tip can be risking the tip of the blade. The knife is simply a thin wedge and when forced into the wood across the grain, it puts excessive stress on the blade; as many of us can attest. Chisels are designed to handle this added stress. The skew and chisel are also use to clean up in tight areas of the carving. A word of caution to all carvers, never use a hammer or mallet on a palm tool. They are not designed for that kind of abuse; a mallet tool will have a heavy ferrule where the tool joins the handle. They may also have a ferrule near the back of the tool, this is most often seen in Asian tools where the mallet is metal. Last edited by rick-in-seattle; 02-14-2006 at 07:37 PM. |
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#8
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Hey Rick, Good stuff here. I also learned something from Steve Prescott that helped an awful lot. When I used gouges I had a tough time sometimes cutting with them especially when cutting an end grain around something like a cowboy hat. I told him this and he showed me that if as you are pushing the gouge you kind of rock it from side to side it cuts very nicely. His explanation of how this worked was: which way does a knife cut better? pushing straight down with it or pulling the sharp edge across a surface. This made sense when I thought about it. Ever since then I have no problem with gouges when the cut gets tough. Another great tip I learned from "The Great One" Harold Enlow was using a small half round style gouge like "Dockyard" makes and rotating it in a circle against a piece of wood to actually make a round hole. This is real helpful if you don't have a drill. Don Last edited by Don by the lake; 02-15-2006 at 06:37 AM. |
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#9
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Thank you Rick. I'm glad you have the patience to explain things in detail. Let me see if I got this right ok? If I used that chisel one.. I would just push it directly down into the wood for a stop cut...and then lay the tool flat and push up to the cut? The skew, because of the angle on the end has me a bit more confused.. if I did the same as above with that tool I'd have one end deeper than the other end. |
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#10
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Marci, The skew is used much like a knife when making a stop cut. Normally it is held with the blade end coming out below the hand like an ice pick. The point is pressed into the wood and the tool is pulled away from the pointed end; like very young children hold color crayons. The chisel is pressed in to cut a line, starting with one corner and then bringing the remainder of the edge down to the line in a slight rocking motion. Make these stop cuts angled slightly away from the line or remaining wood. Closer to the line at the surface, and moving away slightly at the bottom of the cut. Why angle the cut slightly? When a wedge is pressed into the side grain, it tends to compress and tear it; after making several stop cuts in the same area, the wood looks ragged. Often these tears in the wood penetrate into the finished carving. By angling away from the line, it leaves a little wood to remove later which leaves a crisp clean surface. The chisel is not the preferred tool for making surfacing cuts; a #2,#3 or#4 gouge works much better. Last edited by rick-in-seattle; 02-14-2006 at 11:47 PM. |
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