[chuckt]

I was wondering if folks here have read Chris Pye's "Selecting and Sharpening your V Tool" (available here - http://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/slipstones/v1.html )

In it he describes a problem with the shape of the V Tool's keel (the outside where the two sides meet) that can be seen in the first photo I've attached. (This is a screen grab from the Chris' work btw - so I want to give full credit. Hopefully this is ok to do since his work is available freely on the web from above address.)

He says this shape makes it harder to push the tool through the wood since the shape causes the tool to want to lift out of the cut. He recommends regrinding the shape of the keel as shown in the second photo.

I am wondering if Pfiel V tool users here have tried this or if not, if they feel the shape has been a problem for them? I want to get some other opinions before I consider regrinding my tools.

Thanks.
ChuckT

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

V tools are hard to sharpen , at least for me, I have a ramelson, long handle bent V that I cannot for the life of me get right? I have a number of other V tools I don't seem to have a problem with? Seems the metal on one side is softer or something, keeps angling on one side instead of staying flat on the end..........v tools are tough....!

[Dundee]

How is the V-Tool working for you on your low relief carving? The regrind looks like it may be better for the low angle grip. Only thing I noticed is that I do need to hold the chisel so the keel is flat against the wood for it to work. I think that is a higher angle than the low angle grip in Chris Pye's book. I can't use the low angle grip with mine to well cause it's an intermediate sized one. Plus since I chose maple I really had to use a mallet anyway. I plan on replacing the few intermediate tools I have with the full length ones so I can use both hands.

Chris

[brian bailey]

Chuckt,

I reground my Pfeil V's as Chris suggested. Made a big difference in the way they cut.

[chuckt]

Thanks for the input Brian. Maybe I'll give it a try. Roght now I don't own a grinder so it'll have to wait awhile though. Just curious to hear others thoughts.

Chris - I am working in basswood and the V seems to cut ok. I have the full size tools and can use the low angle grip, but it does seem to ride out of the wood. Tough to maintain an even depth it seemed to me.

ChuckT

[chuckt]

Hmm - yeah I kinda figured this was a pretty tricky grind. Which was what prompted my asking about it. I am NOT experienced at all with grinding tools so I think I'll wait on trying this. I probably should have just bought Ashley Isles or Stubai V tools instead of the Pfeil.

But I seem to be able to use them as is for now, and it is only two. Rick - do you do this type of reshape and if so, how much would you charge? That may be my other option.

Thanks for the additional info and caution.

!
ChuckT

[brian bailey]

ChuckT,

Don't be intimidated, it is not a tricky grind. Just do what Chris Pye shows you to do in his instructions.

It's just two flat grinds parallel to the keel.

Like Chris says, you can do it on a coarse flat stone, it will just take longer to do.

Believe me, by doing this, you make a pretty much useless tool into a great cutting machine, as long as you keep it sharp.

[Dundee]

Hey Rick,

How does this look? I don't think the regrind caused the hook. I figured I'd try it on this gouge since I'm going to replace it with a full size one.

Thanks
Chris

[Dundee]

So should the facet edge be more like the green line? So it wouldn't protrude onto the micro bevel and up as far along the main bevel?

Thanks
Chris

Originally Posted by rick-in-seattle

Chris,
The flats are ground parrallel, and at a good angle, but they extend too far toward the cutting edge.

The "hook" is caused by not removing enough material at the apex of the V.

I realize the last two statements sound contradictory, but the apex (usually radiused) needs the same angle as the two legs of the V, and the same radius as the interior of the V.

(Regarding the hook)
If a tool edge is not consistant in profile thickness, but ground equally, the result is wavy cutting edges on most tools and hooks or notches in V-tools.

I understand the pictures magnify the condition, but rough cutting surfaces create resistance while making the cut and may dull the look or shine of the cut.

My suggestion is not to reapply the flats each time you sharpen, this will allow the thickness to return and then work on the radiused area to give it the proper angle to the inside profile.

Good luck