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Woodcarving Tools, Technology & Sharpening

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Old 07-28-2006, 11:06 AM
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Default Oil/water/dry sharpening

Is there a general rule of what lubricate you should use on different stones? I have bought several different stones over the years and don't use them enough to remember what lube is used on particular stones.
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Old 08-04-2006, 05:02 PM
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Default Re: Oil/water/dry sharpening

For the grey carborundum stones, oil or water works, I like water. For the orange colored Norton-like India stones, use oil. They come from the factory pre-soaked in oil, so use "sharpening oil" or some light oil, even WD-40. I think most sharpening oils are a variation of the mineral oil you can buy at the grocery store for 3-4 bucks. On Arkansas stones, I have used water, but later decided oil is best. Of course, once you have "oiled" a stone, you can't really go back to water. On diamond stones, some go dry, but a rinse with water keeps them clean. Oil on a diamond stone? I don't know- never tried it. NEVER use oil on a japanese waterstone. Pre-soak in water for 30 minutes.
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Old 08-04-2006, 05:19 PM
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Default Re: Oil/water/dry sharpening

Cerndog,
I was beginning to think I would not get a response. I'm glad you answered. I want these stones I have but didn't want to ruin them buy using something I shouldn't. I'm going to print this and put with the stones.
Thank you for the info.
I assume the "Arkansas" stones are the dense, almost like marble, and more white than gray?
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Old 08-04-2006, 05:47 PM
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Default Re: Oil/water/dry sharpening

yes
arkansas come in variations from white to grey to black with some having the marbled affect of what looks like veins of color swirling through. white can be hard (fine grit) or soft (med grit), grey is usually soft, black is extra fine grit.
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:21 PM
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Default Re: Oil/water/dry sharpening

i once (YEARS AGO as a young man) bought a stone made in china from a dollar table in an auto parts store.
upon arriving home, thinking it was a chineese stone it had to be a water stone, i placed it in a tub of water to soak before using it and after a few hours i returned to use it, the stone had disenigrated to sand,
i took the mush in a paper towell back to the auto parts store and showed it to the parts man that i knew, he laughed and said that is an oil stone you dummy.....
i had never seen such a thing that couldnt be lubricated with water or oil.. until this happened, but what else could i expect.....
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Old 08-06-2006, 12:41 PM
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Default Re: Oil/water/dry sharpening

One big rule [imho] is you don't use lubricating oil on a cutting stone.
In other words something like 3-1 oil is used to reduce friction. Use something like cutting oil, straight mineral oil or kerosene. These act more as a solvent and prevent the stone from loading up. Water stones and diamond stones use water or dry.
Jim
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Old 08-06-2006, 02:29 PM
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Default Re: Oil/water/dry sharpening

I aree with Canopener. Kerosene works well and so does WD-40 which I think is mostly a solvent.
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Old 08-06-2006, 05:26 PM
Butter Fingers
 
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Default Re: Oil/water/dry sharpening

I use scented lamp oil (bayberry) on my oil stones and diamond plates because it smells good and does a good job of floating the particules away. Did I mention that it smells good too?

I use plain water on my Norton water stones.
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Old 08-07-2006, 11:28 AM
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Default Re: Oil/water/dry sharpening

Canopener- or anyone-
ever tried "Marvel Mystery Oil" as a general shop lube? It's an automotive product used to loosen sticky engine valves. I think it has solvent in it because when you oil grimy dirty joints like old pocketknives, more dirt and junk oozes out each time you oil it and work the movement. I've used it to loosen the works of old cresent wrenches, clamps, etc. You know, tools you get from yard sales or from neighbors ready to throw them out!
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Old 08-07-2006, 12:19 PM
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Default Re: Oil/water/dry sharpening

i was introduced to Marvel Mystery Oil during my stay in the service, we used it in an ioler for our air tools such as 3/4" impact and sanders its a great general lube..with solvent action...
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