[hruukki]

OK, so just about any good quality mineral oil seems to work fine, thanks everyone. Otherwise, I just read somewhere (maybe in a Chris Pye book) that oilstones should be cleaned after each use anyway. Seems to settle the question, at least for me. Thanks!

[J Cowan]

I use Marvel Mystery Oil. I have a couple oilstones soaking in a coffee can of the stuff, and use some in a small bottle while using them. That said, I use those more for the rough stuff--knives and mower blades. They are pretty rough stones. When I use Arkansas stones for carving tools, I use regular honing oil, or machine oil. Whatever is handy. Don't have to sharpen the carving gouges often, just strop them, or maybe a really fine water stone.

[Canopener]

Years ago, I worked for a Chevron jobber, selling fuel and the full line of lubricants and other products. We had on hand, and were encouraged to read thick volumes describing lubricants in both general and specific applications. The very first thing they wanted you to understand was the nature of friction; complete with pictures and diagrams. The second thing was the concept of lubricity, in other words how to combat friction. I do not think it would be hard for me to make the point that the oil companies spend big bucks to be the best; or, pardon the pun, the slipperyest.
My point is that someone has spent millions to make a product, motor oil in this case, to reduce or eliminate friction.
Your question is, will it increase friction? Maybe if you take your knife to Talledaga and strap it to one of them hot rods for a couple laps.
On the other hand; light oils or oils with a high solvent content like deoderized kerosene [BBQ lighter fluid] or something like WD squirty might do the trick if used in sufficient quantity.
I have puzzeled on this question quite a bit and found that if you flood your stone with common H2O; you will create a clean and abrasive environment to sharpen your tool. I use one of those large syringes the dentist gives you to irrigate your gums after he yanks one of your teeth;but just keep it wet.
That is my 2 cents worth, or in todays market;ummh, close to 4 bucks worth.
Jim

[Kenny_S]

LUBRI City? Where it that Jim??? Sorry ! Just had to.
Watched Grandpapy spit on his stone when sharpening his knives. Couse he always has a chaw in his mouth. Even when he ate. I'm a betten, he even slept with a chaw.

Ok, I will return to my little world. Hey, they don't like me there either. LOL

[cotton]

If you don't like the mess of using oil, saturate your oil stone with WD-40. I sprayed a bunch of WD-40 into an old plate and soaked the stone in it overnight.

Now I just use water on it -- and it doesn't soak into the stone since, as we all know, water and oil don't mix. Some day I'll probably have to re-soak the stone in WD-40, but I haven't had to yet.

Steve

[Jim-Iowa]

Originally Posted by J Cowan

I use Marvel Mystery Oil. I have a couple oilstones soaking in a coffee can of the stuff, and use some in a small bottle while using them. That said, I use those more for the rough stuff--knives and mower blades. They are pretty rough stones. When I use Arkansas stones for carving tools, I use regular honing oil, or machine oil. Whatever is handy. Don't have to sharpen the carving gouges often, just strop them, or maybe a really fine water stone.

Yep it's a marvel alright! It has a remarkable cleaning quality about it.
There's always a quart on my workbench and like Dremel says, "the only limit for it's uses is your imagination".

[Plain_Ol_Ed]

I just spit on mine. It's what I was taught by the lumber jacks over 60 years ago and have never seen any reason to change. Works fine, doesn't make a mess, and you've always got some with you.

[FK]

Mineral Oil from the grocery store (aka baby oil) no smell, no rust (water), keeps hands from stinking of lub oil, very cheap.

Regards,
FK

[Canopener]

Ken,
Don'cha know Lubri City is right in between Vinylville and Latexland; it's where Sue Baroo lives, a gal that will really floor ya and shift your gears.
I think I will stop that line of thought right now, besides, the Trocadero closed down years ago.
Actually; lubricity is a word my old boss liked to use. He was an oldtimer and a genuine piece of work. He would think nothing of packing a rifle in the fuel truck when hauling gas out to a ranch or logging camp; just in case he needed to knock down a deer for supper. Those days are gone, sigh.
Cotton, BTW, you know the WD stands for water dispersant, it's original use for electrical stuff. A good choice because, strictly speaking it is not a lubricant.
I wonder if you guys are on to something with the tobacco spit; seriously, it seemed to do the trick.
Jim

[Plain_Ol_Ed]

I gave up the tobacco part about 20 years ago after bout with Cancer. Acually, I've always used just plain spit. Works fine, better than plain water.

On the WD-40, it was originally developed by Rohr Industries in Chula Vista, CA during WW-II. They are located on the South End of San Diego Bay and were manufacturing aircraft parts for the military. They stored them outside so needed a coating to help keep the salt air off the aluminum. They tried many formulas and the fourtieth one is the one they settled on. Water Displacement forumula 40, WD-40. You learn the strangest things in neighborhood bars. Used to play darts and have a pint or two in Phylls Anchor Inn in South San Diego with a bunch of Rohr employess.