To answer some of the questions, I use O1 tool steel because a propane torch will satisfy all the temperature requirements.

I also use W1 which is a water quenchable tool steel, but prefer O1 which is oil quenched.

I shape the blade with a course sanding belt, but a sanding drum on a dremel or even a file or grinder can be used.

I forge (hammer to flatten) then shape profile and flatten the sides on the sander.
Then I 'stress relieve' a couple times by heating the blade to cherry red and cooling it slowly in a coffee can filled with vermiculite. That relieves some of the stress caused by forging and grinding. It also improves the metals structure.


I leave the blade thickness until after heat treatment.

[Captain_Bandaid]

Rick, if you forge a point on the rod before you flatten it, you will have less shaping to do after you flatten it. When you flatten it, the point is still there and all you have to do is decide to drift it up, down or leave it in the middle. Saves some material. Also, would you believe that forging is done at temperatures above the recrystalization temperature so there is really no stress left by the forging process? However, forging at high temperatures can cause grain growth which leaves the metal brittle. Instead of slow cooling it, I ususally air cool it from a dull cherry red. It creates a smaller grain size and makes the steel tougherÂ*Â*But you prolly knew that, huh?

[AlArchie]

Hey, Kenny, I wouldnt go for any changes.......Prettiful, sounds like a great descriptive term to me! Especially if it was coined by a grand daughter!

Al

Capt.
You know more about metal than I ever will. Thanks for the tip on creating a point first. Would normalization be a better term?

[Captain_Bandaid]

Rick, yes, the term is normalizing when you air cool it and annealing when you slow cool it. I really like the wood in your handles. After my bout with skin rashes from the Bolivian Rosewood, I have not made many more knives. Besides, I have a drawer full of them in addition to the dozen I keep on my carving table. I also discovered that Buckskinners(Mountain man re-enactors) like those carving knives for use as patch knives (to trim the cloth patch from around the lead ball after they have started it into the muzzle of their blackpowder rifles). Put them in a small leather pouch to hang around the neck and you are in 'another' business.

[Kenny_S]

Thanks Ric and Capt'. I am not a forger but dabble a little here and there. Understanding more from you guys as I go along.

Al, you are right, what ever the GDaughter calls it is just fine with her Papa. Now to get the 16 month old GSon to start. I think I have a few more years and my daughter does not like it when Papa and GDaughter sits down to carve. She hasn't cut herself YET, Wish I could say the same for her Papa. I did buy a small size carving glove for her but way to big. But safety first.

Enjoy !!!

Kenny S

Rick,

Thanks for sharing your wisom and skills, I know I very much appreciate it? Hope you don't mind some very basic, naive questions -

1)Hopefully I understand the process ?

heat -> forge -> Stress relief -> shape -> temper

2)How do you know when the proper temperature
has been reached to allow the forging to take place?
Is that where the magnet comes in? Or is the magnet
used when doing the stress relief?

3) What diameter stock do you start out with?

thanks again, I really appreciate what you have shared with us.

PC,
I use 3/16' for most small knives, 1/4' for roughout knives, and 1/8' for fine detail knives.

My process goes like this:

(1) Heat until non-magnetic, forge (hammer) until the red color is nearly gone. Â*

(2) Heat until non-magnetic, forge to shape, flatten, and straighten. Â*Repeat if necessary.

(3) Heat to a dull cherry red and place in a coffee can filled with vermiculite, allow to cool slowly (about 5 minutes)

(4) Lightly grind the sides of the blade until flat and smooth, and shape profile.

(5) Heat slowly to non-magnetic, hold that temperature for a little while, and quench quickly into warm vegetable oil 5-10 seconds.

(6) Polish blade and Temper at 400-450 degrees

(7) Carefully grind blade to finished shape.

(8) Grind flats on shank and set into handle with 5 min. epoxy.

(9) Sharpen and polish the blade.

(10) Test the blade for edge-holding ability.

Since I have such respect for the Captain's knowledge, I hope he will share his process for tool making.

Also anyone else who makes tools, I know there is a standard process, but there are also 'tricks' that good blacksmiths use.

I know one knifemaker who edge-quenches his blades to get more spring into the blade.

I know another who micro-peens the blade, which gives fantastic edge-holding ability.

[AlArchie]

Rick, my Grandpaw used to peen a new edge on his syths rather than hitting them with a stone. This work hardened the edge and didn't remove any steel. D'ya think this could work on knives???

Al