mora knife modification help

[kenny clay]

Well I wish I would have known about the inconsistent metal in the blades. I used a 1 x 42 belt grinder to work it down. It didn't get hot at all. As far as my carving technique goes... I wish I could get to the point that I could use some technique. It seems as if the first 3/8 part of the tip is bad. Should I make the blade shorter in length or width to correct the problem?

[Nomad]

Originally Posted by kenny clay

Well I wish I would have known about the inconsistent metal in the blades. I used a 1 x 42 belt grinder to work it down. It didn't get hot at all. As far as my carving technique goes... I wish I could get to the point that I could use some technique. It seems as if the first 3/8 part of the tip is bad. Should I make the blade shorter in length or width to correct the problem?

As I understand it, the majority of the blades Del got were just fine, although the fact is that they were not originally designed to be worked down to that level of thinness. Another reason Del decided to make his own blades is that Mora had a hefty price increase.

I would keep working with the blade. You may find that it eventually will stabilize. I have had this happen quite a few times. Often it's because you think you have removed the burr at the tip but you really haven't. Sometimes it takes a lot of stropping pressure to work that burr off. Sometimes I have even changed the angle of the grind out towards the tip, convexing the primary bevel bit. When you have a blade that tapers distally, it can get really thin out towards the tip.

[Sam]

I think you can make that knife usable. Just put a micro-bevel on the edge. I would suggest honing to get rid of any fold over, then raise the angle for a few strops for the micro-bevel. I will be surprised if that doesn't take care of your fold over issue.

[Donsexton]

May have got it too hot on the grinder my best guess

[Robson Valley]

Can I add a little Mora-bashing?
I have 5 of the Mora Equus hook knives. Two pairs of the #171 single L&R edged and a #188
that I reworked to 15 degrees as a planer knife blade.

1. The steel, even in the pairs of #171, isn't the same. I try very hard to deal with them equally but one always sharpens more easily and but holds an edge longer than the other. Reworked both pairs to 20 degrees from 30 with a chalked-up chainsaw file, then a progression of sandpapers. Generally pleased with the results for what I want to do.

2. Why do you suppose that Mora cautions the user that sharpening the blade weakens it?
What am I missing?