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Woodcarving Tools, Technology & Sharpening | |||
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#1
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since i started carving some months ago, i built myself a nice small tool set and on the way i realize that theres some holes in my tool collection for given radius. My aim is Ornamental carving with somewhat small architectural twists, like dressers legs, table skirts, chairs back, flowers, leafs, you know, the kind of stuff that kids find boring. here's my Q: Are there any drawback in getting my next tools in a long bent format instead of straight shanks?
__________________ -Philip Succes is a Journey, Not a Destination Last edited by wDonkey; 01-18-2012 at 07:04 PM. |
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#2
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wDonkey: I've considered the same thing recently. To get down into a broad groove or flat, the straight shanks of my tools touch the near rim. With soft western red cedar, that sometimes puts a dent in the wood. I don't own any bent shank tools at all. But, I can't see why they could not be used for regular service at the same time. I think a long bent 8/9 and a long bent 3F/9 would be better than just nice to have. |
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#3
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| I have plenty long bent tools and most of my V tools are bent. I find that all long bent tools under ¾” wide work just like straight tools with a mallet. I don’t like the very large bent tools I have a bent sculptors gouge 1-1/4” wide takes too much mallet. The same size tool in straight fish tail much less mallet for the same cut. Here is one thing to consider with bent tools if you flip the edge to round vines and the like you won’t be able to with a bent tool. Short bent tools have their place as well I used mine for carving the inside of animal’s mouths and teeth. I mostly use a die grinder now days for that task. |
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#4
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I've got three long bents: 8L/16, 7L/10 and a small V. The #7 gets the most use since it fills a profile gap in my straight tools. I don't mind the bend very much when I am using this tool in place of a similar straight, but I do mind it a little, so I would not wish any greater percentage of my tools were bent. Of course the bents are essential for certain recessed situations, and I usually graduate from straights to long bents to short bents, which get down in there where no other tools will go. So, I would go ahead and get a long bent for your next purchase and a short bent for the one after that. Fill a profile gap with the long, but get your favorite profile in the short since their applications do not overlap. One more thing. Get a fishtail. 7F/16 is my fav--for now. |
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#5
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thanks for the replies guys. Donsexton : you bring a good point there with not being able to use a bent tool upside down, thats the kind of advice i was hoping id get. im not yet into undercuts so i dont plan on getting short bent tools pretty soon, but fishtails are on the list, maybe going for a fishtail/longbent combo would suit my style? heres what i have as of now : 3/10, 3/25, 4/5, 4/20, 5/16, 6/6, 7(28)/6(shortbent), 7L10, 8/2, 8L7, 9/8, 9/18, 10/6, 11/3, 11/6, 12L6, 16/3 (35°V) i like to work with both my longbent, and find some limitations on my other most used tools (3/10, 10/6 and my beloved 8/2). im looking to fill the lack of tools in have in the 1/4 to 3/4 radius. i was thinking a #4/4.5(3/16), 4/6 and a 5/12. what do you guys think of that way to proceed ?
__________________ -Philip Succes is a Journey, Not a Destination |
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#6
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The first long bent I bought, I fell in love with. Sometimes when I carve, I pack a "kit"...tools I know I need, some I think I might need, sharpening stuff and 2 longbent chisels. Buy and try at least 1, you can always resell if you don't like it....
__________________ "how old would you be if you didn't know how old you are??" |
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#7
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Nice collection of tools. Since you already have a 5/16 the 5/12 would be a good one to go fishtail on. I've never heard of a longbent fishtail--doesn't mean they don't exist, just seems to me the action would be all wrong. 3/10 or 6/6 would be good gouges to 'nose'. Draw back the wings slightly so that the center protrudes. There are lots of applications for this and you will have expanded your capabilities without adding a new tool. You like the 8/2? What do you use it for? Scales? Pupils? I'm curious. 3/25, 4/20 Nice. Good finish tools. You slice your cuts right? |
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#8
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good idea on going fishtail with a 5/12. i have yet to reshape my 3/10 and my 6/6, and the average temperature in my shed is now below the -10°F so the bench grinder doesnt get much use. the 8/2 is still pretty shallow, the wings are just high enough not to dig in when im cleaning up out of reach cuts and in between leaf. the shank is thin enough to be slightly bent, and i find that the edge at its 30° gives me more room, less heel and overall good control. the 3/25 and the 4/20 are my ashley iles, heavy, sturdy, and damn sharp. i was practicing on pine (i have to get the basswood air-shipped so i keep it for good occasions) i put a 20° on the #3 and i didnt even had to slice when going accross the grain on pine, it was another story for the #4 wich is ~25° ( i tryed putting an inner bevel) my last tries were on maple and im quite more gentle with my low bevel tools, the #4 works alot better and can take quite a pounding. overall they are one of the best purchase i've made so far. the next tools im buying are gonna be ashley iles as well
__________________ -Philip Succes is a Journey, Not a Destination |
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