Knife blades

Thomp · #11 10-05-2007, 01:18 PM

good sourse for steel is places like this
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=667&PMCTLG=00

Bartster · #12 10-05-2007, 06:17 PM

keith,

denny knives makes some unhandled blades that you are able to make handles for, these are great steel that stays sharp and comes in quite a few sizes.

bart

Capt. Bandaid · #13 10-06-2007, 07:18 PM

I would suggest you pay close attention to the shape of a carving blade that works well for you. Grinding or forging a piece of steel into something that looks like a knife blade is easy. Getting the tapers correct and getting it sharp enough to cut even soft wood is not that easy. I guess we all need to try it but trust me, it is not all that easy to get a good blade especially if you have to heat treat it. What are my qualifications to say that? Metallurgical Engineer, hobby blacksmith, amature knifemaker for 20 years. I still buy my carving knives even though I have made a LOT of them. Some work, some don't.

AlArchie · #14 10-06-2007, 08:20 PM

You forgot "Master Magician", Capt!

Al

R-OLDS · #15 10-07-2007, 10:09 AM

My two cents...

There are lots of different materials to make wood carving tools from most of them quite cheap and or free.. Use-enco.com is a very good choice they have drill rod and precision ground flat stock o1, w1.
Here is some of the raw materials I have used to make woodcarving tools,
circular saw blades, lawn mower blades, bed frames, saw zaw blades, cement nails, spade bits, files, drill rod, precision ground flat stock, there is many more cheap and or free materials to use but the above is a few of the things I have used..
The first thing I do with unknown raw material is make it hard, red hot dunk in transmission oil put in vise and try to break it, if its brittle then you probably have something worth working with, then all you have to find out is what temp to temper at, I have found that 400 is a very close temp to start with, some tool steel needs a higher temp, the way I come to this conclusion is when sharpening and polishing the tool if it is VERY difficult to remove the scratches from grinding and shaping the tool it is TOOOOOOO hard and not tempered at a high enough temp..

I feel when you make a tool that the closer the raw material is to the size and shape of the finished tool the less time you will spend making it. I have had excellent results making knives out of old worn out circular saw blades the newer ones are thinner so less work. I just cut the shapes out of them using cut off wheels in a die grinder.

Randal

Capt. Bandaid · #16 10-07-2007, 10:13 AM

Sorry, I did not mean that to sound self-serving. My point is that making a good woodcarving blade involves a good bit of skill and understanding. Study the shape and thickness of the blades you use. Learn how to heat treat properly or you will not get the abrasion resistance you need. It isn't rocket science but....well....I guess rocket science depends on proper metal working and heat treating. Grinding a blade from a straight razor works if you can do it without ruining the temper from overheating it. Straight razors are often hollow ground and that is not a particularly good shape for a carving knife so be prepared to flat grind it. Round the edges of the spine so it can be turned as you cut without binding up. The little details make a difference.

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #17 10-07-2007, 10:42 AM

I have never had a problem with my straight razor knives, they are all good blades....but that could be beginners luck too lol. One no one seems to think of is sabre saw blades...they make a great cold grind smaller blade...up to maybe 1 to 1 1/2 inch.

AlArchie · #18 10-07-2007, 10:43 AM

Capt. I meant that as a compliment...you've given me and a few others some great advice and I truly consider you one of those "Metal Magicians" with a host of spells! Read that years of experience.

Al

Capt. Bandaid · #19 10-07-2007, 03:34 PM

Thanks, Al, I am flattered. HiHo, yes, clearly straight razors will work if they are ground out correctly. I have tried using sabre saw blades but discovered that most of them have a hard alloy edge welded to a lower carbon steel strip. The best hardness I could find after grinding the teeth away was about 40Rc which is not very good for a carving blade. You can buy short lengths of hardened and ground tool steel that can be ground to shape without heat treating. Not inexpensive though.

AlArchie · #20 10-07-2007, 05:55 PM

anyone interested in trying this knife making business might try contacting www.brownell.com a gunsmithing supplier. They can provide W1 and O1 tool steel in rod and flat stock and small quantities. I've purchased single drill rod stock from them and I believe if you email them, they will also supply small or individual quantities of varying sized flat stock. Good people to deal with.

Al