What kind of saw?

Nancy_G · #11 11-24-2002, 06:52 PM

Al - you're scaring me. To get my blade back to what I HOPE is 90*, I just set a little metal L shaped gadget with a bubble level in it on the table against the blade. Usually I'm within a nano-inch of 90* anyhow ..... then tighten 'er down and take off.
PLEASE tell me I'm not doing something wrong.

#12 11-24-2002, 07:10 PM

In a moment of rage I gave my Craftsman to my son-in-law. The next time I needed to cut something the only place open was Lowe's - the only thing they had in stock was the Delta so that's what I got. Works fine. I got lucky. Teri, your just not going to find an adequate saw that will fit comfortably on a table (I don't think) unless it's a big heavy table. So be thinking workbench or tool stand.

AlArchie · #13 11-24-2002, 08:29 PM

Nancy, you're doing it right, OK. Â*with that tilting table, there isn't much to clog up, but with the tilting head, there is a built in stop, and a threaded control, that tends to get clogged with sawdust. Â*Then there is the battery; when it goes dead, there is no digital readout for the degree settings.

On the PLUS side. Â*You can set this thing to one degree accuracy, once the head is set to 90 degrees with the little try square that you use. Â*Just crank the handle and read off the angle you want. It can even be set a little past 90 degrees if you over play the stop setting. Set at 90 degrees it just cranks back to position, but the darn sawdust get in the way after building up. Â*I think I'll let the stop loose and use the readout to find the 90 degree spot.

The tension is also set digitally, but there is an analog setting on the back if the aole batt is dead!

Al

#14 11-24-2002, 10:33 PM

Good advice here on bandsaws. The smart money goes for a standup unit. I have both a tabletop and a standup saw and do not use the tabletop for much of anything. A good investment would be to purchase some low heat blade guides to save on future cost of blades. Woodcraft can be an easy choice for your bandsaw accessories. Sounds like someone might be getting a new christmas gift.

Ric

#15 11-24-2002, 11:38 PM

Oh, I'm not going to wait for Christmas - that's too many carvings away :-) Thanks, you guys, for all the advice. I'll definitely get a floor model, thanks to you...and am right now investigating all the options you've thrown out as far as models. Thanks!!

Teri

lorax · #16 11-25-2002, 08:18 AM

SCL, I want echo something Nancy_G said that stands repeating. The extension block allowing an extra 6' cutting height. I know th rigid, Jet, delta, and grizzly saws had that ability. the thing to look for is a gigantic bolt on the left side of the frame that holds it together. Even if you don't need it now it would be nice to have the option later. I was looking into the rigid, and the extension kit was about $65.

Luckily, I started school and have access to one of the biggest woodshops Ive ever seen :P

AlArchie · #17 11-25-2002, 08:54 AM

Lorax, do you know if these extended heights can be used for cutout work, or are they pretty well limited to resawing?

Al

#18 11-25-2002, 09:30 AM

You have a movable blade guard and can lower it to whatever height you need...doesn't effect normal bandsawing, just gives extra height.

lorax · #19 11-25-2002, 02:01 PM

Ditto, plus the reason I was going with the extension, was for cutout work. If you get into larger pieces, or cut profiles out, the wood gets pretty thick. I used to draw the profile and take it down with my arbortech after a million stop cuts with a back saw, so a taller cut suits me more than bigger throat width.

keep in mind, the blade guides move with the guard, so you can have the same stability of the blade with a higher cutting ability.

#20 11-25-2002, 07:55 PM

Tools are one of my favorite subjects so I will chime in as well, mostly to agree with everything that has been said. I give high marks for the Delta, Jet, and Grizzly but have no experience with the rigid. The height attatchment for me is not an option but a neccessity. I can lower the guides to clear a 1/4 inch board and have all the blade support I would have with a smaller machine and raise it up to cut 12 inch material. Blade selection becomes important with that much wood though. Nancy your on the right track with the square to set your 90 degree angle but I wouldn't pay much attention to the bubble level. the critical angle is between the blade and the table, not the table and the planet

Dave