[bcarvings]

Hi,
I'm able to get my knives sharp enough to cut through wood cleanly. I have invented a test (cutting against the grain, digging into the wood at an angle) that determines whether it's sharp enough or not. When I cut the wood regularly I cannot tell the difference between my two knives.

I have these 2 knives ok, 1 is sharp to pass my test I explained above. The other is not. Here's my problem, "the other knife" is sharp except for 1/4 at the tip. At 1/4 the tip there is like a small bevel thats not sapposed to be there, its larger then a burr would be but I'm just letting you get an idea how small this bevel is. (I'm assuming the reason the knife's tip didn't pass my test because of this extra bevel) Also the extra bevel is only on the 1 side. Now I tried sharpening it away on a diamond stone for like 15 minutes, but it's still there! It didn't even seem to change However I did redefine the main large bevel....

Do I take it to the coarse stone? Has anyone has this problem? I think it's hard to get rid of because there may be a slight very slight curve in the knife leading to the tip. I don't know though.... Suggestions?

Thanks again

[xsailer]

Boy I'm anxious to here comments on this as I've had the same problem. It would seem a simple fix but for me it hasn't been. The tip just doesn't sharpen like the body of the knive. I thought maybe there might be a very slight curve of the linear cutting edge at the point end from previous stropping and therfore not allowing the entire cutting edge to contact the strop.

[Kenny_S]

I am surprised the diamond stone did not take care of your problem. My guess, no pressure app;ied to the tip when honing and stropping.
I place my index or pointing finger in the middle of the blade while honing and stroping. Even pressure on the tip and body.

[decoycarve]

Is the Knife in question straight on the the cutting edge or is it a curved blade knife? You have to get a little wrist motion going for a curved blade knife to be even out to the edge.
Goody

[bcarvings]

My knife is straight at the cutting edge, now I did only sharpen the tip with pressure. That is why I'm confused why that damnn extra bevel won't hone away!

[decoycarve]

Are you holding the stone in your hands or do you have it flat on a bench.
Goody

[Thomp]

my walnut hollow chip knives were the same way with the factory double bevel on one side,

by using a straight edge i determined it wasn't bent, but that when the blade was semi hollow ground from the factory one side of the blade was ground differently than the other as to where the actual center of the blade was suppose to be,,, in relation to the backbone of the blade,

the finish grinding to make the cutting edge wound up centering the backbone

image included explanation, right side center offline right is correct...

in the left image, the red line represents the factory sharping that makes the double bevel evident...

to correct this i reground my blades with a 8 inch water grinder so both sides meat in the center or what i believe the center should be. no way to tell without precision tools, anyway i removed the surface from one side until the double bevel was gone... and the knives preform very well cutting easily without too much pressure ...

in my understanding even though the double beveled blade was razor sharp, the blade thickness following the cutting edge was thicker than needed to be, causing friction and not allowing the cutting edge to penetrate the wood during the cutting stroke, but by regrinding the blade it became thinner at the cutting edge allowing deeper penetration into the wood before the friction on the sides of the blade stopped the penetration....

that's my story ...
Thomas