[jillsy]

Does anyone have any tips on tightening a bandsaw blade? I don't know why I can never get it right; despite going over the directions step-by-step. Right now, I have a very fine blade on for carving my miniatures. It keeps flexing back and forth and WILL NOT go in a straight line.

I'm ashamed to admit I came a hair away from slicing my finger off twice out of sheer frustration trying to get the wood to go straight. It seems to me like it's just not tight enough, but I can't seem to get it any tighter...it just gets louder! It's a new bandsaw and I'm not blaming the machine as I've gone thru this before with other bandsaws.

I'd appreciate any tips - it's probably the dumbest thing I'm missing. I've also broken 2 blades in the past, but I don't know if it was because it was too tight or just flexed too far!

Thanks!

Jillsy

[wood-whittler]

jillsy,

your blade tension may be fine, but do you run your blade guide down enough to help hold the blade straight if it is all the way up then the blade may not run true if you are cutting somewhat thin stock. also if you have the blade guide down check to make sure the cool blocks are adjusted right.

hope this helps just something to look at.

btw what kind and size bandsaw do you have?


bart

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

Is this a ryobi? and what kind of blade do you have on it? Also do you have the cool blocks against the blade?

[dryheat]

Jillsy,
What exactly are you trying to do on the saw? Cut out a shape, resaw, or cut to a straight line? What size blade and tooth per inch are you using? Are you sure you have the upper and lower guides set correctly, I use a piece of regular typing paper and wrap it around the blade from back to front then adjust the guides so I can just move the paper up and down. Do you have both the upper and lower backup bearings set so that they start spinning when the material to be sawn just hits the blade. Do you adjust the upper guide group so the material will just clear by a quarter inch or less?
If you are trying to saw a straight line or resaw, most Bandsaws tend to have some drift, the kerf angles away from the intended line, but once established the drift line tends to be consistent. Bandsaws can be obstinate dudes but be persistent and try to describe what you are trying to do and what the problem is and I’m sure someone here can help.
Good luck, Ed

[mdallensr]

You can usually feel a problem with the kerf, or set of the teeth. With the saw OFF!, run your fingers lightly up and down the blade. If you've lost the set on one side, you should be able to feel the difference. You can do this by hitting something bad in your piece or by forcing the blade against the blade guide. Regardless, it doesn't get better. If it's not severe, you can usually correct for it, since it should be consistently drifting in one direction. If it's severe, and you're trying to cut a straight line, cheerfully start over with a new blade. Over-tightening your blade will have a bad outcome; breaking the blade will be the lesser of the evils. You could damage your wheels or even the frame. Good blades and blade guides make a huge difference. Mike

[squbrigg]

The way that Laguna teaches in their video is this:

With the saw shut off, open the top guard, and tighten the blade tension. The tension will be correct when you push on the blade towards the frame and the blade will only flex 1/4" either direction of center. The point you push is about 6" down from there the blade last touches the drive wheel. Only push with enough pressure that you fingernail begins to turn white.

I hope I've explained this right, but you get the main idea. Try it, it works.

As for getting a blade to cut in a straight line.........buy a Laguna, it's the only saw I've been able to get to cut straight!!!

Bob

[bygeorge]

Jillsy, if you are doing fine work (tight curves) you may want to consider a Carter Bandsaw Guide. I have one on my Griz and can turn some really tight turns. You can look at them at Woodline.com.

Chuck

[Lynn O. Doughty]

First, check your instruction book. It will tell you how to adjust your saw when installing a new blade. You have to do it each time you change a blade, even if it's the same size. Here's a short course:

Loosen all the side blocks and back bearing.

Install the new blade and tighten it to the proper tension.

Rotate the wheels so the blade finds it track.

Adjust the blocks and bearing following the books instructions. (If your saw came with metal blocks toss them and buy some graphite blocks as Hi-Ho suggests.)

Rotate the wheels again to make sure that nothing is rubbing. Your blade teeth should protrude from the blocks but the rest should be between them.

Blade drift is caused by using a blade that is too small. 1/8" blades are great for any thickness less than an inch. Thicker stock will cause your cut to drift. Buy 3/16" skip-tooth..they'll cut 4" stock and turn a tight radius.

[AlArchie]

Jillsy, it sounds like you have a 1/8th inch blade, is that right? You will, in all probability not be able to hold a straight line with that thin a blade. There just isn't enough support in the blade itself to hold a true line.

Also, with that fine blade, if you are following a pattern, make SURE you are feeding the wood at a 90 degree angle into the cutting edge. When "scrolling" with a bandsaw, or even a scroll saw, it is common to feed slightly from either side. This flexes the blade sideways and results in the blade tracking off wherever IT wants to go! This is just a matter of developing technique, after you recognize the feed error.

If you are just trying to make straight cuts, put on the widest blade you can find, and for thick material, probably go for a 3 to 6 TPI blade, maybe even a skip tooth for fast controlled cuts in thicker material. I believe the general rule is to use a blade that will keep at least 2 full teeth in the material, so for 1/4 inch stock, use at least an 8 tpi blade, etc. Thinner stock, more teeth per inch. You can use a finer blade for thicker material, but they will feed slower, and maybe even hang up, if fed too fast. Or........SNAP!

Al

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

If you are cutting really thin stock, you might consider getting a good scrollsaw...I can cut 1 - 11/2" easy, probably more but usually just go to the bandsaw.....and besides, its a good excuse to buy another tool!! lol