[squbrigg]

How can you tell when you have to replace your Foredom shaft? I have been suspecting that mine is due, and have a replacement, but just not sure.

Bob

[Doug Ridley]

You don't need to replace it until it breaks.I have been using the same shaft for maybe 8-10 years. If it is slipping you probably just need to take it apart and tighten the little set screw that holds the shaft in the collar. Be advised that to remove the sheath, you probably have some left-handed threads up there at the top. Remember, if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Hope this helps.
Doug

[Ashbys]

I agree with Doug ,
on the foredom, the only thing I would add is that if you look at the drve shaft and it looks frayed or open it should be replaced, outside of that might just needs to be greased again, if it rubs the outer sheath for a long period of time they can get pretty worn.

I have not used mine for carving but in heavy grinding on steel I have had them shatter into 3-4 parts , but they were usally in a contorted in some extream fashion.

Ash

[Paul_Guraedy]

That Foredom just seems to keep on ticking. Last summer I had to replace the sheatth on mine. I have had it taped with duck tape for the last 5 or 6 years. But, don't even remember when the shaft was last replaced. And I use mine a lot. When the micro grinders came out, I thought this was the final answer to rotary tools. Now, I find myself going back to the foredom more and more.

The handpieces on the micro-rotaries are just too bulky. I find the flex-shaft less of a problem than the thick handpiece. Also, like the torque of the foredom.

One thing that shoud be done fairly often (depending on use) is to grease the shaft. And not to leave too much grease or it will get hot in a hurry. I grease mine down pretty heavy and then wipe it off with a clean lint free rag (old T shirts seem to work nicely). I rub down the shaft with clean areas until the grease is not leaving a heavy smear. Then I go back over the shaft with a greasy part of the rag several times. This leaves a nice coating on the shaft that is not too much.

[decoycarve]

When it gets Caught in your tshirt and after you get it untangled it don't spin any more.!!!

I have also found out how to take the hand pieces apart and replace the bearings. The older handpieces had Jacobs chucks and decent bearings. The newer handpieces are made in china.

Goody

[squbrigg]

Thanks folks, I've lubed and cleaned it a few times, so it may be due again, and the screws may have slipped. Just getting a vibration in it more often now, using it more too, so I'll give it a try.

Thanks again.

Bob

[Doug Ridley]

The vibration MAY be due to having a little too much curve in it. Try to keep the shaft as near straight as possible when carving. I have noticed vibration when getting it in a bind. Just a thought.

[Callynne]

Bob, I'm wondering, do you have a Micro Motor? I love my regular rotary for roughing out and getting my pieces down to handcarving stage. However, I find it doesn't do a smooth enough job for the kind of detail carving I like to do. For that I switch to my RAM 45. Considering ALL your work is extremely fine detail (much, much more than anything I do!), I think you might like a micro motor very much. And hey, aren't we always on the lookout for more tools we absolutely have to have!?! Deborah

[Doug Ridley]

As a (primarily) power carver I totally agree. A micromotor is a must have tool. You can do so many fine details so easily with it. But the Ram isn't the only reasonably priced one on the market. Take a good look at the Optima 2 as well as several others.

[squbrigg]

Thanks for the help folks and the suggestions. A Micro Motor or Optima may be worth looking into......where would I find info on them? Some of my stuff does get small and I'm always working towards smaller.

Bob