[Thomp]

2 knife blades purched frost mora laminated steel scandinavian the kind recommended for flat plane,

Pictures posted in my gallery < LINK<

the blade thickness from side to side is 2x as thick as most any knife, is the first thing you notice
the lamination is visual in the difference of color of the steel,
the skin or outer part of the blade is bright silver, easily scratched or marked,
then the equilivent of a Straight razor hard carbon steel inserted and forge welded inside the skin continues through the full tang so this is a tough little blade.

the larger blade cutting area measures 2-3/4" with handle overall 8"
the smaller blade cutting area is 2-1/4" overall 7"Factory sharp for these blades were carving sharp..


Hollowed slab handles are made from basswood and a mystery mahogany that was is as hard as cherry but smelled of cinnamon and pepper then all filled and bonded with elmers 5 minuet epoxy with a thin black miracidia bolster added at the blade end for estetics and wear,

used these blades, for a bit carving slash pine and basswood, pine is rough to evaluate the cut with because of the layers of differentiating grain densities but cuts basswood like butter, the distinct sound of the knife slicing down the grain sounds like cutting a ripe watermelon.......you can hear the knife cut the wood fibers,

Weight: semi heavy blade so basswood was used to keep the blade lighter than using oak. or the mystery wood on its bolster and cap.

nice thing my cost about $25.00 and 2 hours waiting for the epoxy to really cure, results a really happy carver.
here the blades shown un polished with a few skuffs i made during applying the handle,, but they will buff out fine.


Suggestions & cretiques, comments welcome...

[rick-in-seattle]

They turned out very well indeed!
I think they are two of your best knives so far.

[gene messer]

Good looking knives Thomp .. You did a great job .. Ia'm impressed ..

Gene

[Thomp]

one thing i forgot to mention is i bought the blades from little shavers,
look in his knive section from the main page youll find them listed,
also look with murry blades as well..


Thanks rick for the positive comment as a knife maker i find that uplifting..

im still healing from handling them blades while i handled them up.
..i gotta to learn sharpen them after you i them finished. or buy some thick rubberized tape to cover the sharp edges...


They were definately best preformance, for hoggong off a big chunk of basswood.
now if i just knew what i was really doing to use for this scandanavian flat style, i might not have any excuses to get as good as some other carvers.
guess ill have to get that scandinavian book from you soon.

Thanks for stocking the blades rick now suggest where is a good place for weird and exotic grain wood.. ?..cheep?

[Tom H]

Thomas, Don't know what is happening to some of my posts. But I responded to your knives post and the posting was never picked up...Oh well, I'll just try again. Those two new knives look excellent. I especially like your description of how they cut. My only concern, is the time of day/night that you posted. You gotta get some sleep fella. I am beginning to think you're some kind of vampire carver....Anyway, great looking knives..Tom H

[Canopener]

Thomp,
Looks like a couple of very nice knives, well done.
I really like the frost knives and hope you become a fan also. I think they deserve a bit more credit on this board.
Let us know how you like using them.
Jim

[Kenny_S]

Well Thomp ol buddy, some more nicely mad knvies. Well explained and you got the thumbs up from one of the best knife makers also.

[Thomp]

Originally Posted by Tom H

Thomas, Don't know what is happening to some of my posts. But I responded to your knives post and the posting was never picked up...Oh well, I'll just try again. Those two new knives look excellent. I especially like your description of how they cut. My only concern, is the time of day/night that you posted. You gotta get some sleep fella. I am beginning to think you're some kind of vampire carver....Anyway, great looking knives..Tom H

I promise 'wernt me' i didnt do nothing to your posts, tom..
i do that sometimes, and stop for a reference on another tab then never get back to the post i was making.. thinking all the time i answered the post .... on another tab...

tom,
dont worry bout my sleep several have commented bout that even rick. seeing times i post.
but me and the cats got a contest going, takin turns seeing who can get the most naps in a day..
i get 2 hour naps several times a 24 hour period. and sometimes i just crash for a all day nap. and then folks here locaky come to wake me up to see if im sleeping.....or they need to burry me...ha!

besides i can watch television at the keyboard as well as i can in the bed wide awake... i done it and vertical aint a good position, you spill the cheedoes and coffee ...to much..

thanks for the nice comments on the knives, and the on going concern.

Canopener,

one thing i like about the blades is the insert of straight razor hard carbon steel, man thats an easy blade to maintain,, i carved all night with it without honing it once., roughing out several. well 12 of the 4" flat plane charters, out. 10 of slash pine 2 of basswood, couldnt dig up no elder....

and i think the knife is as sharp as it was when i began,

to tell you the truth, the idea of a laminated//inserted hard steel between layers of soft steel had me believing that these blades would be very hard to maintain, but the carbon steel layer isn't that thin, at .050 its about as thick as a detail knife blade, but the lamination outer layer brings it up to .120 nearly 1/8" thick, at the bolster the blade from edge to backbone is .540 little over 1/2" and roundly tapers off to a toothpick point. So its not for fine detail.
but what detail is in flatplane, ??eyes?
the thickness and pitch of which its profile is ground makes it great for pulling thick chips off, and requires some finess to remove thin chips, but working further out on the point is a good compensation work around, as the blade backbone is less out there, but it causes you to want to choke up on the handle i got several slight cuts from doing this, you dont want to choke up to far with this knife.

this small blade is 2-1/4" long a bit too much for Fine detail on cowboys and santas it takes a bit of getting use to the longer blade, i use a blade normally 1/2 to 1" long for detail or less,

the second bigger knife, there is 3.240 or 3-1/4", x 0.130 a scoch under a 8th inch so a little thinner than the small knife, First impression,
i think it would be great for really roughing out and debarking, cypress knees, if not doing flatplane with it. its nearly like using a butcher knife, and would be great for heavy work, my blades bought from
http://www.littleshavers.com/Blades.html look at the bottom of the page. you see 3 frost mora blades and rick offers them handled with the sheaths elswhere.

of the three offered i got the smallest and the largest offered,from rick.

other new to me blades im considering a set for my next project,

Four piece wood carver blades made from high carbon stainless steel and cryogenically treated and double tempered for extra edge holding.
from texas knifemakers the hard work is done with these blades, nothing left to do but just set them into handles,,,, but good looking and weird grained wood is in short supply round the old homeplace. so its a trip to the woods,,,for something ggnarlyand ttwisted good fence row tangled oak or ironwood? osage or walnut

E nuff rambling its naptime... {tom}