Fast sharpening question on outcannel gouge

[jgourlay]

I have largish (1") out-cannel gouge. I've dubbed it over a little much. It came to me semi-sharp with bevel profile like you would get if you were to cut a spoon cross-wise. Start high and "scoop".

I don't know how "undub" a rounded profile like this. However, I have a very nifty setup already I use with lathe turning tools. I could put the gouge in the jig and hollow grind the bevel slick as you please, then clean up with an arky black and a strop.

What I don't know is whether the profile for a turning gouge is appropriate for a carving gouge. Thoughts?

[nadcarves]

So what you are describing as a gouge that has the bevel on the inside???? Not a problem at all. Start the outside bevel in the normal manner and every time you sharpen increase it a little bit.You don't want to just cut all the material off, you want to carve it off,again increasing the out side bevel as you go along. I have a small Issac Greaves 1/4 inch Victorian Ladies chisel, with a reverse bevel. I'll never totally get it out in this life time..If you have problems, I'll work the tool over (to where I would use it) for you..Just remember to keep the inside bevel well polished.If you don't, it will pick up microscopic surface rust and the tool will drag on you. Hope my reply was of some help, cordially Nad

[jgourlay]

Nad: no, just the opposite. The inside is the "back" of the bevel. The outside has the actual bevel on it. It looks just like a spindle roughing gouge.

So, when pushed across a piece of wood, it is the bevel that rides on the wood and the back that supports the chip. I believe you are describing a gouge where the back rides on the wood and the bevel supports the chip. This one is opposite that.

[nadcarves]

Am sorry, fingers punching while brain was asleep.Have a few tools with reversed bevels that are slowly being returned to normal..Your bevel has the profile of a spoon .Most simple for you is to send it to me.Not a problem to take it down, no charge,and send back. Only, I tend to cut to my favorite angle. You can take a belt sander, and using a rest, flatten the bevel..To be safe, you put 3 in 1 oil on belt, or a stropping paste.Slows the cutting down, eliminates much of the danger that comes with turning the tip blue.You can use a drop of water on the inside to tell you when to cool, and add more compound.Stay away from the cutting edge with power.tend more to the heel..You want to give it a shot, that is how I take my tools down prior to hitting on a felt wheel..100 grit, which is standard..The use of the compound on a belt, will be "discovered" by many sharpeners in the near future.. The most honest statement in sharpening is that if all the carvers who burnt a tool ,using power, were laid end to end there would be a lot of us laying around.Me included. cordially Nad

[jgourlay]

So Nad, do I gather then that the hollow grind you get on a grinding wheel is not what one wants, but that the spoon shape is what you want to maintain?

You mentioned the belt sander. I have a powered flat disk sharpening that I could essentially use for the same function. The grinder is simply faster. Appreciate the offer and the answers.

[nadcarves]

Looking at a chisel sideways....You have a horizontal top line longer than the bottom line shape.The line coming down from the top is a straight line, no curvature as in a spoon shape,, The only place you want curvature is at the heel of the bevel to facilitate exiting of the chisel from the wood..How much rounding there is part of your carving pattern... One of the few times you want a spoon shaped bevel is on short bent tools to help them dig in better. That was a tip from Chris Pye a long time ago, and as with the majority of his suggestions, an excellent one.. I should clean out about 20 or so short bent chisels.. I put 220 jumper cables across the ears trying to jump start the brain..Didn't seem to do much good, maybe it is not in there cordially NAD

[jgourlay]

Thanks nad, tells me what I wanted to know.