how do you wrap a wheel with leather

Thomp · #1 06-07-2006, 08:47 PM

I want to make a 1"x 8" inch wheel with a leather banding on the outside edege.

but i dont have the slightest idea how to join the ends so it dont bump when i go over the connection...

the end result will be a slow power hone..

the current 3 inch wheel works just fine, but becuse the wheel is small the edege or working area is so small im thinking a 8 inch wheel will provide much more surface for honing..
the throry bigger wheels ride easier... on bumpy roads..

making the wheel larger will provide me a 6 or 7 inch step for a drive belt as well...

i know the leather band joint has to be a miter bevel wouldnt it??

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #2 06-07-2006, 09:00 PM

wrap the leather so that it laps itself and then cut both pieces of leather at the same time...you will get a perfect fit.

ElWoodTroll · #3 06-07-2006, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hi_Ho_Sliver

wrap the leather so that it laps itself and then cut both pieces of leather at the same time...you will get a perfect fit.

What he said! even if there is a bump Youll slill have a good hone.
Another solution is to cut several disk from belly strap leather and stick them all together (an 8" by 5ft can be had from tandy for $25.00 )when you hone the inside of your gouges You just remove how many ever disk it takes to fit properly(two or three disk can take care of a variety of sizes)

Thomp · #4 06-08-2006, 01:35 AM

I was thinking of gluing a strip on the edege on a 1" wide wheel i thought a 45/45 degree miter bevel but maybe there was a secrete to hiding the spearpoint behind or underneath the flap... ??

lots of wheels, paint rollers and fan belts are constructed this way...

if you look at one of them. it shows the layer comming into the connection is uncercut. or where it leaves the topskin lapping over the incomming side of the joint..

hay bailers and conveyor belts use metal fasteners which wouldnt work for this application,

i made a 3 inch disk hone of 25 layers.. it works great but the honing working face on top of the wheel is only about 1/8" area at once..
which youhave to be awair of and constantly keep the edege moving or it polishes unevenly.. im hoping a 8 inch wheel would give a better-larger working service.

you never know what you can learn if you ask the right question... guess i didnt ask the right question yet.

woodcarver55555 · #5 06-08-2006, 01:52 AM

you want the part of the joint you see to be a 45 across the face of the wheel. The two ends should not be a butt joint, but a scarf joint. A long overlapping joint with the ends tappered at a small angle like 20 degrees. The scarf joint has been used in woodworking for 100's of years. It is a strong,low profile joint that hides itself. Also used when you do not have stock that long( used alot in boatbuilding) and when they make leather drive belts. Do a search on yahoo and you will get pictures and a description. Duncan

Thomp · #6 06-08-2006, 02:18 AM

ok see there ya go..
this referance is somewhat i was looking for, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarf_joint
although this joint is orentated as to where the top edege is feathered out as a straight 90 degree flap which with glue would cause a bump i think if this flap was set to 45 degree you would not feel the splice pass between the wheel and blade, .
. if it was pvc or plastic you could use a chemical glue with solvent to fuse the joint then sand it smooth.. but leather streaches asorbs humidity and i dont know if you can vulcanize it.

do they make a replacement wheel or belt for them fancy $500.00 sharpening mchienes, im about to give up on this quest.

Ashbys · #7 06-08-2006, 06:21 AM

Thomp,
In a sanding belt they use a backing material across the joint.
But personally I would suggest you purchase a honing wheel.

The leather at some point will come free from your wheel. For time spent danger of what your doing , a honing wheel would be a much better option. In my opinion.

Ash

rick-in-seattle · #8 06-08-2006, 10:59 AM

The replacement leather is available, but you still need to cut it to length and bond it to a wheel.

The cut is cut straight across the face of the wheel, but at a 45 degree angle so the overlap prevents the tools form peeling the leather off.

One thing about strop wheels, you must reduce the rotation speed to 600 rpm or less.

I have seen what happens when you turn them too fast; the worst spanking you ever had. The welts last for months.

Another option is to bond a round piece of leather to the side of an 8 inch wheel; that could turn safely at a slightly higher rpm.

Hi_Ho_Sliver · #9 06-08-2006, 11:32 AM

unfortunately the "Burke" turns at 1750 ...humm is that where you got "spanked" Rick? lol

Thomp · #10 06-08-2006, 11:59 AM

thank you rick..
ya see the right question and a PM.. brought the answer...

i have a 3" power hone, pullied down about 300rpm, but working surface is so slight im afraid of getting double bevel, roundover or cupping from using such a small surface, with a larger wheel I can grove up the 3 inch for my palm chizzles and do just fine for them..becuse their mostly mini or micro in size...

ashbys
i was reading your reply and couldnt figure if it was before first cup of coffee for both of us... the next to last sentence was giving me fits, but i think i got the just of it. that a replacement wheel would be best...