Diamond Stone ??

[SmallJawz]

I have seen mineral oil used on diamond stones but they say water only. What can be used ? I know you can also use diamond stones dry.

[JerryH]

I use mine dry. I see no need to use anything on it.
Jerry

[AlArchie]

Brian, you can use either or neither! Diehard "lube sharpeners" will insist on some type of oil and others will swear that water is absolutely necessary. The diamond stones work perfectly well without any lubricant. On the other hand it won't hurt any either. Some of those diamond stones have perforations in them to trap debris away from the sharpening granules. Lube will help get that debris into the perfs, but most will wind up there no matter what. It is important to wash these stones regularly to remove the crud. Even the solid faced diamond bars should be rinsed occasionally to remove the debris of sharpening. Just put a little soapy water on and brush with a soft bristle brush.....an old toothbrush works well.

Al

[FK]

I strarted using water about 20 years ago,,,the rust and stain were difficult to clean up.

About 4-5 years ago I switched to mineral oil (baby oil at grocery store) and it is excellent,,,, wipes up clean and no more rust stains. No odors like from cutting oils or kerosene.

Last year I attended a Wood Working show that had a booth by DMT, the sales people were experienced and I quized them on water vs. mineral oil vs. dry. They said mineral oil was O'K, just did not cut a agressivly as water which is thinner of course. Do not use dry,,,,it will tear off the diamonds and wear out the stone faster than with lubrication.

Regards,
FK

[SmallJawz]

Thanks I think I'll go to mineral oil. I also have had the rust problem with water.

[AlArchie]

There are two types of diamond stones; monocrystaline and polycrystaline.

Polycrystaline stones are less expensive, and start out quite aggressive, but the multi-crystal structure tends to fracture with use, degrading to a more fine, less aggresive abrasive surface. They still cut, but are changed to a finer structure.

Monocrystaline stones are the more expensive of the two, and not subject to the fractures that affect the polycrystaline types. They will retain their original grit for a much longer time, lubed or not.

There are two completely different purposes of using a liquid on your stones. One is to help carry away the debris, or abraded metal from the blade. This will help keep the abrasive particles on the stone clear of debris and thus retain the abrasive quality. The other is "lubrication", and if your purpose is to lubricate, you can expect a proportional loss of abrasion as you increase the viscosity of the lubricating fluid. You can expect a finer polished edge from your stone with lubrication.

A very light machine oil or mineral oil will provide both debris removal and some lubrication. If you want a REALLY light oil, try going to a musical instrument store and getting a bottle of "valve oil". That is an extremely low viscosity oil that will do a great job of keeping your stones clean. (and it doesn't stink)

Al

[BobD]

As far as the rust with water...I know they sell a rust inhibitor to add to your water...my dad uses it with his waterstones...

Bob

[AlArchie]

You can also find a "water suluable oil" that is used in automotive and diesel valve grinding operations. This is specifically designed to cool, lubricate and limit oxidation of metals. Never heard of using the stuff for sharpening stones, but you could check at an auto supply store and see if it would be economically feasable.

I've been using my diamond stones dry for at least 10 years and there is no appreciable abrasive deterioration, although I have noticed they now act as a finer grade stone. Still work, just fine, and I have the cheaper polycrystaline types.

Al

[FK]

I have the same experience with both DMT and the EZ Lap stones,,,they start out very agressive and quickly smooth out to a finer cutting action. I believe that is the initial sharp diamonds points being leveled out with usage.

One tip for long lasting diamond hones, from the DMT people, do not use excessive pressure like with the oil stones or ceramics,,,,the diamond stones are best with lighter pressure and let the stone do the cutting. Excessive pressure will pull the diamonds away from the nickle bonding layer and they will become less efficient. I asked the DMT engineer to demonstrate on the back of my hand,,,the amount of downward force,,,,it was very, very light.


BTW all of the popular sharpening systems work, the key is holding a constant angle and practice. Diamond is great for initial profile establishment with a new tool or reprofile a used tool edge,,,very quick material removal.

Regards,
Fred Krow

[SmallJawz]

I bought monocrystaline stones and have not used them yet. I have ex-fine, fine and coarse. They say thats 1200, 600, and 325 grit. I also bought mineral oil for them but may look into the valve oil.

Do you think I will need a 220 grit? I'm not able to find it in the single 6" stone. I think the 325 should rub off a good amount of metal when needed.

How long should these stones last? And do you think these are the best choice. I have about 35 palm and euro tools and 4 knives.

I'll start a new thread on favoirite stones and why.

Thanks a bunch