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Woodcarving Tools, Technology & Sharpening

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Old 03-31-2007, 08:52 AM
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Default Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

I know I have seen a post or two on the credit card size diamond stones, but can't seem to find them, so I apologize for revisiting this. Does anyone have experience using them? Would the extra-fine be a substitute for a leather strop if you are out and away from your tool kit?
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Old 03-31-2007, 10:19 AM
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Default Re: Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

A leather strop polishes the blade where a stone, no matter what it is, will act as an abrasive. As for size, I think you want something you can anchor now firmly and draw your blade across it in an even manner. A small credit card size would really be hard to handle and wouldn't give you an even edge. If you need an emergency strop just use the inside of your belt.
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Old 03-31-2007, 11:26 AM
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Default Re: Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

I have used the credit card size diamond stone for years, but it is glued on a piece of wood.

No, It isn't a subsitute for a leather strop. The extra fine diamond stone is an abrasive stone and does what it is supose to do, cyt the medal of a knife blade. The leather polishes the edge. two different applications.
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Old 03-31-2007, 01:03 PM
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Default Re: Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

I was given a smith brand,\ sold at lowes, for fathers day couple years ago,
its 1" x 3 inches long and bout as dangerious to use as carving with a dull blade,

stick with what lynn said, a strop is easily made from a paint stur stick and a piece of pig skin from walmarts, ive made many.
but in emergency ive used the back of a tablet, my belt, side of my shoe, even a clean flat unfinished plank, will give you some benifit...
but using a diamond stone can wreck the fine polish you strive to achieve on your blades...
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Old 03-31-2007, 02:57 PM
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Default Re: Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

Thomp, The Diamond Credit card size stone does a different job than the leather strop. About the fine polish finish, well just because it has a polish finish doesn't mean it is sharp. I use to think the exact same thing but have been shown that is isn't always true. A sharp not polished knife leaves the same type of burnish cut as the polish Mirrored finish one.
I have regrouped my thinking on sharpness and polished finish.
Just a little knowledge I learned from a professional knife maker. Thought I would pass it on.
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Old 03-31-2007, 09:21 PM
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Default Re: Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

Ken... I have a set of Harbor Freight diamond stones, slightly larger than a credit card and originally adhered to a plastic backing. The glue or whatever they used has long since melted from the heat of my tool box. Now I have three loose diamond plates along with three pieces of colored plastic. What did you glue your stone down to the wood with or did it come that way?
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Old 04-01-2007, 09:59 AM
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Default Re: Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

Harbor freight stone are good for what they do. I have a set but do not use them on my carving knives. Way to coarse even the fine grade ones. However, they make short order in sharpening a hoe shovel edge..
The Credit card size diamond hones are EZ-Lap, In fine and very fine grade.

I use plain old Elmers wood glue on several diamond hones and they are still glued down. Also have used Gorilla Glue. a little more messy but does the job. I use a smale C clamp and clamp the hone to the wood also.
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Old 04-01-2007, 05:51 PM
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Default Re: Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

Ken... I agree. I generally follow-up with a couple of swipes across my DMT stone. Thanks for the glue recommendation. I've thought about mounting them to a strop sized piece of wood so that the fingers aren't in peril while sharpening but I just wasn't sure what to use to keep them in place!
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Old 04-01-2007, 06:20 PM
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Default Re: Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

Safe way of going Eddy. There are other glues that will work and some may be better, Just used what I had on hand.
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Old 04-08-2007, 10:11 PM
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Default Re: Credit Card Size Diamond Stone

Ken...

I tried your suggestion and as I mentioned added my own twist. I thought that I was going to be cute and after finishing the strop shaped backing drilled a 1/4" hole in each corner where the hone was to go. Then I mixed up some two part epoxy and filled each hole and then set the hone in place. When it cured it made for a very neat application. The only problem is that the first time that I dropped one (the yellow strop) the epoxy shattered and broke loose from the hone. So then I tried some Sumo glue and like you said, it was messy but it worked. I didn't want to redo the other two so I dug out some very small screws (used for attaching fishing lure hardware) and put one in each corner. Those suckers aren't coming off now. I just have to be careful when honing that I don't hit the screws with the tool blades. That shouldn't be a problem since all I use them for is sharpening carving tools.
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