Crazy glue

Bandaid · #1 10-30-2002, 12:26 PM

Somewhere I read about mixing a powder (I think it was baby powder) with crazy glue to thicken it up so as to be more effective in a glue-up where there may be a gap. Has anyone tried this?

AlArchie · #2 10-30-2002, 01:41 PM

Haven't tried that, but with epoxy designed to fill gaps and epoxy filler available, why risk messing up a glue-up with some experiment unless, you don't have, and can't get the stuff ya need.??? My bet would be that mixing anything with one of these super glues, would only weaken the bond. I'd be interested in hearing any other ideas, or sucess or failure stories from anyone who's tried them, though.

Al

#3 10-30-2002, 02:14 PM

But when you do a glue-up with that epoxy filler stuff, does it stand out when you paint it (i.e., not absorb the paint the same as the wood)? I've just started trying a few glue-ups of pine from the lumberyard - always the cheap one - I use regular Elmer's wood glue, clamp it together, and then carve off the edges where there are any gaps. Should I expect bad things from this process?

Teri :

AlArchie · #4 10-30-2002, 04:37 PM

If you use Elmers white, carpenter or Gorilla Glue, or any of those one part glues, you can clamp with a lot of pressure to hold the pieces together, and not loose any strength. Epoxy takes a lighter clamping force so you don't squeeze the stuff out. Epoxy's strength is in the glue so a little more between the pieces is preferable. I have never had a problem with paint not adhering to the epoxy joint, but if you are worried, v-groove out a little and fill the joint with a wood filler. I have used epoxy to insert fins in fish, both painted and naturally finished (stained) and have had no problems with epoxy taking either paint or varnish, or lacquer.

I'd use elmers or equivalent on a glue up, though, unless I knew I had gaps in the joint.

Al

#5 10-30-2002, 05:00 PM

They make a thick super glue specifically for that application - try a model airplace shop they may have it. Least wise that what my model building neighbor tells me.

firewoodstudio · #6 10-30-2002, 06:59 PM

I have mixed wood dust from sanding with most glues to repair or fix a crack and all seems to work

AlArchie · #7 10-30-2002, 08:53 PM

Have you mixed that with the cyanoacrylic super glues? I've heard they make a thick one, but haven't seen it in the stores. would that be that type for models etc?, And is that mixable with powders, sawdust, etc?
Al

#8 10-30-2002, 10:38 PM

You can mix Baking soda or Baking Powder with the cyanoacrylic super glues. Â*This is extremely hard and gap filling. Â*Can paint over it as well. Â*What I do is put the glue in the gap then put the powder over it. Â*Sometimes I have to do this a couple of times to get it filled and carved or sanded down to the surface that I want. Â*I have only tried this on small gaps. Â*Larger ones I use Quikwood.
Hope this helps,
Bette

#9 10-30-2002, 10:46 PM

Just about any carving catalog that sells the C.A. (super) glues sells 3 types -- thin, regular and thick. I buy all three. When I have a thin, fragile area finished I dump on the thin simply to strengthen it. If I break something I use the regular to glue it back together - after very lightly wetting both surfaces first. Don't ask me why, but C.A. works better on a damp surface.

The 'powder' that is generally mixed with them to fill gaps is baking soda. The Fall 2002 edition of Wildfowl Carving Magazine has a long, detailed article describing the process. I don't know if the article is reproduced on their web site.
http://www.wildfowl-carving.com

#10 10-31-2002, 05:54 AM

I use West System Epoxy on all my outdoor signboards, and carvings. I then Prime and paint them with top brand enamal sign paints (One Shot)to protect them from UV rays. Epoxy alone will break down rapidly in sun light. But it is by far the strongest glue there is. I also know many sign carvers who use nothing but Tight Bond wood glue, and have not heard of any problems with their signs.