Chainsaw Sharpening Illustrated

pouledeau · #1 03-02-2007, 01:36 PM

...just discovered this site !! Great !! Looking for some help locating illustrated chainsaw sharpening using files...want to learn to sharpen in the field. Thanks for any assist.

AlArchie · #2 03-02-2007, 03:43 PM

Check at your local hardware store for a chainsaw sharpening file and guide. I've found them at Sears, Tru Value and Ace centers. All three stock these files with handle included and mounted in an aluminum frame. The frame is marked with several different angles for different blade styles. Also included is a pocket sheet with instructions. All you have to do is lay the file in the tooth at the guided angle and take a few strokes on each tooth. It's quick and easy and will keep your saw sharp. Just make sure you get the right size file for your particular chain. The chain pitch should be stamped on the chain guide or in the instuction manual that came with your saw.

Al

pouledeau · #3 03-02-2007, 04:13 PM

...Al...sounds easy enough...will give it a go this weekend. Let you know how it comes out...

Canopener · #4 03-03-2007, 12:30 PM

A good sharp chain should throw nice long chips. If you have to use a lot of pressure to cut, it is dull, the saw should do the work not you. If there is any bit of shiny metal on the tip of your cutters, it is dull. If you hit anything like a rock or metal, it is really dull and you will need to spend a bit of time to get it sharp again.
You first need to find the correct angles for your chain and not all chains are sharpened at the same angles. You should have some paperwork for the basics, for instance 30 degrees at 90 degrees. The important thing to remember in the field is to take your time and be consistant and equal in all things. If you have a few cutters damaged by a rock, you need to file ALL of the cutters equally. When you switch from the left to the right side, pay attention to your angles. Many people get a bit spastic when switching from left to right. Don't forget to pay attention to your rakes, they need to be filed also. And remember if there is any shiny/bright metal at the tip of your cutter, it is dull. Do yourself a favor and do a light touch up.
Depending on the wood, I touch up my chain every tank of gas or more often. It saves time in the end. Carry a spare.
The further you drive and the rougher the road; the greater the chance you trash a chain. At least that is how it works for me, except for the time I forgot the gas and oil, then the chain held up real good.
Good Luck,
Jim

BRIAN D · #5 03-05-2007, 07:44 PM

pouledeau
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/manual_maint.htm Thought you might find this link interesting , these are the people in the know. Hope it helps .
Sharp tools make the work easier. Brian

Colin_Partridge · #6 03-05-2007, 09:27 PM

Now are we talking just sharpening for general use or are we talking about sharpening a carving chain. There are a lot of little things you can do when sharpening a carving chain to enhance the cutting edge. What I would mention is that you should only sharpen the chain with a pushing motion not push and pull. Now this is the way I always sharpen my chain and have always had good results. Also filing down the rear of the chain where is turns around the tip will prevent it from dragging when doing so. If your using a carving bar then you may need a 1/4 chain and sprocket. The are also chains called "Full House" chains that have twice as many teeth on them. It is all a learning experience and everyday I learn a little more. Like using Canola cooking oil for lubricating the chain it is enviormentally friendly and your bar will stay as cool as a cucumber. Just a few tips I have learned and I am passing on.
Colin

clintonh · #7 11-18-2007, 01:12 PM

I seem to be able to sharpen the teeth alright, but the bar wants to bind when I saw a log bigger than the bar is wide. Do I have the angles wrong or is something else going on.
clint

AlArchie · #8 11-18-2007, 04:03 PM

It's probably something else, if the chain cuts OK till the bar gets burried in the log. Have you filed the rakers down as you sharpen the teeth? Those are those smaller half round little gizmos between the teeth. They control the depth of each tooth's cut and kick out the chip. Try just a few strokes with a fine flat mill bastard file on each raker, and see if that helps. Five thousandths of an inch off each one will make a huge difference. Don't take too much off or you will increase the chance of a tooth grabbing and the saw kicking back.

Or perhaps you've filed a "hook" into one side of the chain causing the saw to cut in an arc instead of a true straight kerf. Add a little engine torque to that formula and you have a "binding contract".

Another possibility is that you have actually narrowed the width of the teeth while filing them. that makes for a narrower kerf and more chance for the bar to bind.

Seems to me that the chains used by the pros have the rakers set a little deeper than the "home owner" types. Guess it's a matter of safety over efficiency.

Al