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Woodcarving Tools, Technology & Sharpening | |||
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#1
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My question is regarding chain saw sharpening. I purchased one of those dremel attachments to sharpen my chain saw and I was wondering what your professional opinion was on the quality of these sharpeners? Do you think that it is just an ineffective sharpener and that it is much better to take it too a professional when it comes to chain saw sharpening? Alternatively mayby it is good but just not great like a professional sharpening service? Thanks for the help |
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#2
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before I moved to arizona, we lived in colorado and I used a chainsaw a lot! No one near that sharpened saws, so I learned to sharpen most if not all my tools including my chainsaw....I bought the 5/32 file I think it was for my saw and the guide, if you hold the guide level and the angle indicated on the guide and just take about 2 or 3 strokes per tooth, your saw will cut just fine, if you are not level, or do not keep the angle and vary the strokes, your saw will cut every way but straight vertical! LOL Head Bange
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#3
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I'll go with Dave on this one.......you should be able to use that Dremel for the job if you follow their instructions, but sharpening a chainsaw with the proper file is pretty darn easy. I hit each tooth with a couple strokes, just like Dave said, every half hour or so of use. Some of the files come equiped with an angle guide. I'd also suggest you keep one small mill file for cutting back the rakers on occasion. If the teeth are sharp and the darn thing still won't cut, take a couple thousandths off each raker, and you will find the saw will cut like mad again! Al |
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#4
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Al and Dave know what they're talking about. One more thing: The common problem with power sharpening tools is that they eat too much metal, they get held there too long and affect the TEMPER of the steel in the chain. Once the temper is affected, the chain may sharpen nicely but hold an edge ...oh...about a second. It takes as long to power sharpen as it does to hand sharpen, and you won't heat the blade or eat too much metal doing it by hand. If you use a guide you should be able to get close to perfect every sharpening. The problem is knowing what perfect is. I carve and cut hard woods, oak in particular. A sharp angle (30 degrees) dulls quickly in oak, but does great in pine or willow. In oak, 10 degrees seems to do better for me. I still have tons to learn, and I'm using a carving bar and chain vs. a firewood chain. No local saw shop would have a clue what a carving chain is, so I'll just have to replace them as I wear them out, rather than let a pro sharpen them for me! Wade |
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#5
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Thank you much for spending your time to help me out here. Based upon your posts I think I am just going to get a file and guide to sharpen the chain. Keeping the angle right is always usually the key in sharpening any tool it seems. Have any good recommendations on any sharpener with guide products that I can purchase online? Thanks again. Mike |
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#6
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Good advice above. I never had sucess with dremels. Get some good files, they don't last forever, and just follow the original curve in the cutter. Take your time until you feel like a pro. Sharp chain should throw long shavings, but some wood is brittle and will leave like a strip of chips. Pay attention to the rakes, like Al said. If even one or two cutters have a shiney spot on the tip, it's gotta go. Count your strokes until shiney is gone then even up the rest of the chain, trust me on this. If your wood came from a windy,dusty place it is hard on the chain. Keep a spare chain sharp and handy, especially if you are out harvesting your own wood. Keep an eye open for rocks. Jim |
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#7
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__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#8
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The last file I bought had the guide right with it....couldn't even find a plain file. Regular hardwares (not the big box guys) still carry just the files. Al |
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#9
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Great help. Thanks alot. I've been reading article on chainsaw maintenance and care and there is something that I just can't understand. What does resurfacing the bar mean to do. How on earth do you resurface the bar on a chainsaw and what does it mean even. Thanks. |
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#10
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I would assume they mean cleaning and polishing to stop resistance..........?
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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