[chipper67]

I'm thinking about buying some sharpening stones and I was just wondering what some of you think about ceramic or diamond stones. I've narrowed it down to either ceramic or diamond, mainly because either one do not require lubricants. Thoughts and or comments appreciated especially from those of you who have tried both diamond and ceramic. Thanks,

Chipper67

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

I have a diamond sharpener and it is a rough finish, still needs fine tuning, I used a ceramic stone on my chip carving knife and it is very fine.. I would prefer 4 grits of good quality sandpaper to either one...400, 800, 1200 and 2000 they will put a great edge on your tools! or if you want to spend some money ..get a power sharpener...

[AlArchie]

I use the fine grade diamond stones and get good results. Like with using most any stone, a good stropping afterwords will put that final edge on the blade.

Al

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

Al...that reminds me...the cherry handle you put on the blade we were playing with that was bad steel? did you glue that handle on or is there metal inside...I love that handle and would like to cut it off that junk blade and use it on something good?

[AlArchie]

Dave, that reminds me......I forget! I think I put one brass rod through a hole and peened it over. If there is a brass "button" somewhere on both sides of the handle, there is a rivet there, if not, there ain't! Probably epoxied together, in which case you'll be hard pressed to get that little sucker apart. If you'll scan that handle in and email it to me, I'll cut you another handle blank. Think I still have some nice cherry burl or straight cherry laying around.

Al

[Irish]

I have a wonderful set of ceramic stones. One is 800 grit and the finer one 8000. I have used arkansas stones and japanese wet stones and a huge assortment of odd stones that I inherited. The ceramic ones have several advantages beyond not needing lubricant.

First and foremost they never belly out! Most stones over time and use will develop an indentation where you most commonly grind your tools ... just like a set of old stone steps that have that sway-back effect from years of feet going up and down them. No matter how hard I use mine they remain wonderfully level and flat so sharpening does not distort the blades edge. My japanese wet stones work great except they belly out on each and every sharpening session. So the session always ends with having to flatten those stones.

Second, mine set is small, about 4" long. That means as a relief carver I can carry them right in my tool kit, ready at a moments notice. Again, with the Japanese, as they are about 10" long, I have to set up the table for sharpening. Then get them good and wet. Then that's all Ido for the afternoon. So during a carving session I will put off refreshing an edge.

Third, although they don't require a lubricant you can use one if you chose. I do. They develop a great slurry that does not include the ceramic material, so the slurry is clean and effective.

Fourth, they clean up really easy with a green dish pan scrubbie and a little Dawn dish washing detergent. In a minute or so you have a nice clean surface without any metal dust remaining.

Just my preference.

Susan

[KettleKarver]

I have a power sharpener which is great for angle changes or damaged tools. But, for the occasional touch-up, I really prefer to use the Scary Sharp system. If you aren't familiar, it is very fine grades (1000-2000 or finer) of wet-or-dry sandpaper glued to a glass or other hard, flat plate. Followed by a quick stropping, of course.

I like the Scary Sharp idea because it is inexpensive, always flat, cuts fast, can be most any size practical, and is portable.

Jim

[Kenny_S]

I have 4 diamond stones from various venders and like the diamond ones over the others I have, which are the arkansas varity and a ceramic cylinder type.Seems the diamond ones puts an edge on faster. However, I do strop afterwards.

[rales]

For shaping - wet/dry sandpapers on glass - honing on 800 then 8000 grit ceramics (love them! no oil mess). I also have a set of the 4 ceramic slips in different shapes... I got mine from Wood Carvers Supply. These are great for creating and honing inside bevels! Finish with stropping with an aggressive aluminum oxide buffing compound on leather... and leather and wood slipstrops for the inside bevels.

[CarverRog]

For sharpening my chip carving knives I use a leather strop with the yellowstone compound unless I have a damaged edge and then I use a ceramic to get me to the point to strop.