[rick-in-seattle]

Blade length on any knife is important to its function; and especially when that knife will be used for wood carving.

It is best to start out with a 1-1/2� or shorter blade and graduate to a longer blade as you gain confidence and control.

[squbrigg]

You make excellent points Rick. We all have our favorite knives and your points serve to explain what things determine why a knife is a favorite. As with knives that lay un-used, there are similar reasons why we find some knives just difficult to use or hard to handle. Perhaps a blade is too thick, or too long or short, or often it is the handle that gets in the way, but that can always be remedied on a sander.
Good explanation Rick, thank you.

Bob

[AlArchie]

Rick, I just found a brand-new use for that long bladed, 3" knife you sent me.....that long, narrow, pointed tip with the flat (slightly convex) grind is great for cleaning up those really tight corners in relief carving. Just took a relief class from Fed and Elaine Stenman, and was showing that carving knife off to Fred, when he borrowed it and cleaned a couple corners. "Slicker'n snot on a doorknob"! Fred was also impressed with the handle, both the design, and the size. (he has a size 12 paw, too)

Al

[wade clark]

Rick,
I always enjoy your insightful posts! Now I'll give a lot more thought about the knives as I use them, not just switch back and forth when I get to a difficult place in the carving.
Thanks!
Wade

[BobD]

Alfie Fishgap just sent me a new detail knife (as a unneeded thank you gift <grin>) made by one of his friends. It's got a white, Corian handle that he woodburned for me. It's got that thin, sharp blade that Rick was just talking about. It's great for the walnut love spoon I'm working on...but I never realized why.

I've got a long pelican blade that I use for roughing right now, but I need to get myself a good roughing knife like Rick was talking about...and he went and sold the one he made that I had my eye on before I could convince my wife I needed it <grin>

Bob

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

My neighbor bought a frost laminated knife for his roughin and carving blade..I think he bought the middle size ?? anyway, a nice knife, very sharp and a thick back edge for strength.

[dryheat]

I believe too, that you have to consider that where practical and possible you need the use the inside 2/3‘s (next to the hilt) of the blade. The reasons for this ( as I was taught) since your hand is closer to the part of the blade you are using the better control you have; the blade being thicker, it is stiffer and, therefore flexes less and requires less frequent honing. I’m an admitted tool junkie and have several carving knives. I consider myself an intermediate level carver, and I find the shape and design of the handle to be almost as important as the blade. The shape and design of the handle come into play when you carve for several hours, I find that some handles don’t tire my hands as much as others. I believe that the ascetic values of the handle material are also important. When you have a knife with handle material that you really like, it gives a certain sense of pleasure which in turn inspires confidence. Like many activities and sports, confidence is an important factor in success. I have several wood planes that I have reconditioned and tuned. When I use one of these to square, level or smooth wood, I know that I have a really good, well tuned tool in my hands and things just seem to work out better.