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Relief and Chip Carving | |||
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#1
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| OK, I'm finishing up a chip carved plaque with relief carving on it and was wondering if there are any tricks to staining relief carvings to get the light and dark shadowing that most the quality carvings get? Help! Thanks!
__________________ "All things at first appear difficult" |
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#2
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Staining a relief carving should be straight forward, but ..... You can usually get the effect you want with a basic overall stain and wipe off the excess immediately. Layers to darken can be applied in some areas, and you can try different colors for effect too. Have you considered burning for effect? What kind of wood are you using? Burning can help control the flow of stains too. Bob
__________________ Before they slip me over the standing part of the fore sheet, I'd like to pipe: "Up Spirits" or "Splice the Main Brace" .....................one more time. http://community.webshots.com/user/squbrigg link to Gallery photos http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...user/2823/sl/s |
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#3
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I'm using basswood. I will be using a gel stain because of the chip carving. I've never did any kind of burning and staining together. Sounds like it could be tricky. Thanks Bob!
__________________ "All things at first appear difficult" |
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#4
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You may want to do a test staining first. Grab a small basswood block, do a few chips then test your stain. Relief carving opens a lot of end grain along the sides of the elements in the design just as chip carving creates three end grain area. End grain with many woods can really soak up and grab the coloring, leaving you little chance to smooth out or lighten the staining with a cloth. If that happens on your test board try a second one where you have applied one or two light coats of spray polyurethane sealer. The sealer keeps the end grain from over soaking the stain color so you have more control over your final coloring. You will need to wait for the sealer to dry well before staining ... about an hour on a dry day. Plus you may have to wait an extra day or so for the gel stain to dry well before the final finishing coats. But the added control is worth the added waiting time. Susan |
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#5
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When ever I stain Basswood I use a minwax pre stain conditioner. It stops the end grain soaking like Susan was refering to and also basswood has a habit of blotching. But do it on a scrap peice like Susan said. Also texturing I think helps with bringing out shadows and such so I am told. Ron
__________________ RON&PAL View my work@ http:www.westvirginiawoodarts.com www.Blindartistsociety.com |
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#6
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Dang and I almost always stain basswood red ......UnHappy ok I know go Ash go back to your hole .... grumble grumble .... Ash |
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#7
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Make sure you do your burning first, you don't want to burn a finish material. Might make ya sick. Bob
__________________ Before they slip me over the standing part of the fore sheet, I'd like to pipe: "Up Spirits" or "Splice the Main Brace" .....................one more time. http://community.webshots.com/user/squbrigg link to Gallery photos http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...user/2823/sl/s |
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#8
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Thanks everyone! It looks like it's going to be a lot of trial and error on scrap wood.
__________________ "All things at first appear difficult" |
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#9
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This is what I'm working on and the reason for the question. Any suggestions?
__________________ "All things at first appear difficult" |
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#10
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Beautiful work, I love the style of lettering and the border sets it off beautifully. I can see lots of possibilities there of various methods, colours of stains and/or combinations of burning and staining. The advice is good, practice on scrap first. Bob
__________________ Before they slip me over the standing part of the fore sheet, I'd like to pipe: "Up Spirits" or "Splice the Main Brace" .....................one more time. http://community.webshots.com/user/squbrigg link to Gallery photos http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...user/2823/sl/s |
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