How sharp is sharp?

I am interested in learning chip carving. I have a stab knife, chip carving knife, medium stone and an ultra fine ceramic stone . Carving the chips seems way too hard. I have to apply what I think is too much pressure to get the wood to cut. Even then I cant carve tight smooth chips. Everytime I leave a small chunk in the botomm of the cut. Perhaps my tools are not sharp enough! How sharp is sharp. Should they be razon or scalpel sharp. I can slice a small shaving off of my thumb nail. Is that sharp enough?

[BobD]

Hi,
You came to the right place to ask!!

Looked through Wayne Barton's book (he does all his work with the same two tools. He suggests a secondary bevel on chip carving tools because the edge need strength.)

I guess, before I go on, I should find out what kind of sharpening equipment you have...do you have sharpening stones, or a strop, or what do you use...After that, there are several sharpening experts who frequent the board...

Bob Duncan
Fox Chapel Publishing

I will answer one of your questions.

How Sharp is Sharp?

There is only one sharp, there is not a 'razor sharp' or 'scalpel sharp'.

'There is only one sharp, and varing degrees of dullness.' Â*
(quote from my sharpening class notes) Rick

I recommend you get Wayne Barton's book if you want to chip carve; he is the leader in contemporary chip carving.

Hey thanks for the reply. I have an 800 grain ceramic stone and an 8000 grain ceramic stone. I dont have a strop! I sharpened the knife with a dime-space under the back edge in order to product the correct angle. I am wondering why it takes so much pressure to cut into the soft basswood. To be more descriptive my knife isnt sharp enought to actually cut myself. Should it be?

[AlArchie]

I'll quote Rick Ferry when he said. 'There is sharp, and then only varying degrees of dullness!' (hope I got that right, Rick)
I suppose that's a philisophical position, but it pretty well sums it up. If you think you can get a sharper edge on your knife, then yours is NOT sharp.

Boy, Rick sure gets blamed for a lot of stuff around here, doesn't he?

That said, if you'll take his advice on sharpening, you will develop your sharpening skills dramatically. There are others here, too, that can add to your knowledge of what constitutes a sharp blade, and how to get it there, keep it there, and stop it from getting 'bummed'.

Al

[AlArchie]

Geeze, Rick, you are just a mite quicker on the draw than I am today!

Al

[BobD]

If it shaves your fingernail, it should be sharp enough to cut you...a dull knife is more dangerous than a sharp one. I difer to Rick on the sharpening--he is one of the resident experts, but I wonder if it's more your technique. We sell Wayne's book, and it sounds like you need that more than anything else.

As far as basswood being soft--it's actually a hardwood, but since it has fine grain, it works good for carving. Don't get me wrong, its not as hard as oak or ash, but...

Bob

[AlArchie]

T.J. take a look at your blade straight on to the edge. You should see nothing but a dark line on the cutting edge. If you see any 'silver' or reflections of light, the edge is not yet sharpened. Keep at the stone until those bright spots are GONE. Then check under a magnifier...you'll see a thin strip of metal attached to the edge. This is what's called the 'wire edge' and it has to be removed. Best way to do that is by proper stropping. Once the wire is gone, you should have a satisfactory blade. It will take a little practice, but it sounds like you are on the right track.

Al (again)

[squbrigg]

Sounds to me like you are skipping two steps in sharpening, and I've found that I can't skip any and have any success.

First your 800 stone, then about a 4000 stone, then your 8000 stone, then a leather strop with some polishing compound. Yellow or green both work for me. I have mine mounted on a Maple handle, gives me more support, and my blades a wicked edge.

They'll shave through Basswood, like the proverbial 'hot knife thru butter'.

Just an opinion.

Best of luck with it.

Bob

I have taken a weekend with Wayne Barton .He did not use a strop .He just uses the white ceramic stone.to touch up.I have had some chip carving basswood practice boards from Woodcraft that were hard as stone.You need Northern basswood,which is lighter and softer than the southern grown.
I firrst held my blade flat on the fine ceramic stone and go back & forth until the whole blade is polished. do both sides then work on sharpening the blade.