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Relief and Chip Carving | |||
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#1
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hello folks, here with yet another question... although my experience is more with sculptural stone, from time to time i have carved big and small wood pieces and even one or two small reliefs, but the other day me and my big mouth told a client I could carve an equestrian scene on a full door, well he took me up on it and honestly it's hard to pass paying jobs. i'm a carpenter by trade, so i can make a door no problem, but i have never done a relief that big, can anybody give me any advice on how to attack this beast? thanks |
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#2
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If you have computer skills, it helps. Go to an equestrian center and take lots of photos. Try to get the angle that you think you want for the carving. You can print the photo out and use an opaque projector to blow it up or tile it on a photo editing program and tape the pieces together. Or you can draw a grid and scale it up. I use an opaque projector and lay it out on tracing vellum. Then I refine the design on the paper before tracing it onto the wood. I then outline the outside perimeter of the design with a router before relieving it with hand tools. It helps to work out your relief in a scale model with plasticine before starting to carve.
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#3
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thanks for your advice telecarver, what really worries me is the warping... although i have had some very helpful advice from some other people here, i'm still nervous about it. i mean really... who wants a warpped door, no matter how beautiful it looks? thanks again |
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#4
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To prevent warping: 1. Only install a solid wood door in a protected location under an overhang. It should receive as little sun as possible. Use only dry wood. 2. Build a stile and rail door. Solid slab doors will warp. 3. Laminate at least two layers of wood for the stiles, rails and panel. 4. Make sure the panel will float 5. use vertical V grooves 4" apart on the back of the panel to equalize stress relief caused by the carving. 6. Store door either completely vertical or horizontal prior to finishing. If horizontal, support door in at least 4 places along the long dimension. Never lean door at an angle or support door by only two supports horizontally so that gravity can cause the door to sag. 7. Prior to finishing always store door so that air can circulate around all sides so that humidity will affect the door equally on all sides. Too much humidity on one side will cause warping. 8. Finish door as soon as possible. Finish both sides. Don't finish one side and leave the other side unfinished. The same holds true for the jambs even though one side will be hidden. 9. Don't skimp on hinges. I use four ball bearing hinges. This will minimize sagging in the jamb over time. Last edited by telecarver; 02-23-2010 at 11:51 AM. |
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#5
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Excellent advice . Mrgrouch if you haven't checked out Telecarvers website you may want to . Outstanding door work there . I may give one a try and this info will help. Thanks Telecarver .
__________________ You can observe a lot just by watching - Yogi Berra |
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#6
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thanks again telecarver. and jimmy joe, i'd love to check out telecarver's website, can i have the link? if it's okay with telecarver of course...
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#7
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Just click on my name. It's listed on my profile.
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#8
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oh man... i have seen your work before, you are great... i have long admired your work, in fact i was inspired to do a door only after looking at yours. it's such an honor to get advice from you... i just hope i can do something half decent so i can show it here... i'd be embarrased to make something crappy now... the pressure's on... thanks. |
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#9
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mrgrouch I am curious as to how your door has turned out.
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#10
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Me to mrgrouch. Telecarver, your work is awesome, I took a look at your site and was totally impressed. Dave Last edited by Gulf Coast Handyman; 03-21-2010 at 09:53 PM. |
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