[knotnut]

My ongoing project is a full length "excaliber" style broad sword with celtic knotwork in various places on the blade and handle. I've only gotten to the knot on the blade, and I'm having a hard time getting the negative space flat. The knot is quite small and very detailed and when I use a x-acto knife blade, or any blade really, it only makes the area chunky, and I can't get sandpaper into the nooks.
How do you relief work people get the background in tiny spots smooth?
I've attached a picture of it. Sorry about the poor quality, but you can get the idea of what I'm dealing with. I included my thumb to convey the small size of the cross. The negative space, or the holes (what is not the actual knot) are chunky because I can't get a knife parallel to the wood to smooth it out.
Any recommendations? If you need a better picture, I can try to find my real camera.
Is there such a thing as a miniscule curved flatheaded chisel?

[squbrigg]

Welcome to the world of woodcarving. Solving pickles like that is a challenge, and I don't know of any easy solutions, but ..... a couple of things that you might try. I have cut small sticks, sliced the end on an angle and glued sandpaper to the bottom. Not sure if there will be room to work it in though, that hilt is pretty small. Best I can offer is, try a surgical scalpel, actually Lee Valley tools make a carvers version, and carve the edges of the inside of the knots really tight and pop out the chips. They will usually come out clean if you make sure the cuts are connected. The # 11 blade is best for getting into the corners.

Good luck.

Bob

[Merle Rice]

Knotnut, you might try making a small punch that will fit into the holes. Make it from a nail or small bolt. Flatten the end and file cross hatch design on end. Clear out the hole the best you can with your knife, the finish the bottom with punch. Just another option to try. Merle

[AlArchie]

check around at the hobby shops for a set of small fine "riffler" files. There should be at least one in each set with a bend on the end that will let you get into those tight spots.

Al

[Hi_Ho_Sliver]

put glue back sandpaper on popsicle sticks shaped the way you want them, works great.

[knotnut]

Wow, great ideas. I looked at the lee valley site and found the tiny surgical carving tools. They look a lot like what I want. Flatening a nail sounds like a good idea too since they come in so many sizes. Yay!
LOVE these smilies.

[eric maycroft]

Rather Than Smoothing Out I Use A Variety Of Nails That Are Cut Off And Smoothed At Different Circumferences And Use My Mallet To Bang Down Into The Space,not Whacking Too Hard.i Also Use A Piece Of Metal With The End Area Criss Crossed To Give Any Area A Bit Of Texture, Sort Of Stamping Out The Background I Guess.if You Look At My Work In The Gallery You Should See What I Mean.this Method Was Taught To Me By My Moms Uncle ,who Was Taught By His Father About 100 Years Ago And It Works For Me.try Using Oak To Carve And Using A Wood Dye (dark Dye Is O.k As Well As Light) I Use Shellac(french Polish If U Get That)and Bees Wax,it Gives A Good Contrast And Depth To Your Work.i Have Never Used Any Varnish At All I Think It Gives A Sort Of False Finish(my Opinion Only)

[Dan C]

knotnut - There are some good ideas posted in this thread already. I checked out the Lee Valley site myself. Always nice to find a supplier you didn't know about.

Anyway, I posted a similar question here in the Relief and Chip Carving Forum back on 9-22-06. The thread was called "Deep relief - how to get into tight places?" Take a look. There were lots of good ideas offered. I ended up getting some dogleg chisels which worked great for me. I think the spaces you are dealing with are too small for dogleg chisels though. Irish offered a hint that might be helpful to you. She described how she holds a small chisel with the cutting edge at a right angle to the surface and scrapes the surface smooth. That might work for you with a small dockyard chisel. Good luck, and let us know what you find worked for you!

Dan C.