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Relief and Chip Carving | |||
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#1
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I started liking relief carving more than any other technique. I hope some of the master relief woodcarvers can answer my question. The lowest level of a relief (e.g. in a landscape it is the sky) needs particular care to tender it as smooth as possible. My question is: "If there aren't any power tools available, which are the best tools to be used (chisels? gouges? gouges #?, width?)?" Thank you for your answer. Dino a.k.a. Rezbar
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#2
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Hello Rezbar, i do it with a Number 2 or 3 (Pfeilnumbering). Use the biggest Iron you have and make slicing cuts, to flatten the background . The No.3 give more texture on wood. No.1 is useless, the edges will tear off the fibers. For absolut flat surface you can use a cabinet scraper. |
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#3
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Germancarver has it right. I use a Pfiel #2 to smooth out my backgrounds. I use a plunge router to rough out the levels of a relief, which leaves a flat surface that just needs to be smoothed up a little with the #2. Dylan
__________________ Check out my website at www.OldOakEnterprises.com Information on upcoming classes that I'll be teaching, Alabama Woodcarving Retreat Southeastern Woodcarving School Last edited by Dylan; 07-30-2011 at 08:22 PM. |
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#4
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If you want to go "old school" try using a router plane. There is a standard one and also a mini version. Maybe you can find one on ebay. Here's a new one at Vertiastools.com, in case you haven't seen one. This would be used after you rough out the background and before shaping the high areas, which is the bearing surface for the plane. Here's the little guy.
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#5
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I don't seem to have the strength to hang onto a router, free-style. I'm not too sure how to cope with very broad flat areas, either. Quite possibly, I have no clue. Instead, I use various sized Forstner bits in the drill press, then a #3 gouge to clean down to the tips of the left-over center-dimples, then a 1" carpenter's chisel (if I have to). The faces of all my "animal family" were cut down 5/8" very quickly that way. |
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#6
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Try using a router attachment on a dremel tool? Or even a trim router. Much easier to control. To span wide areas, you need an shop-made auxillery base. I like 1/4" plexiglas.
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#7
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Thanks Don: Why do I use Forstner bits? I tried to use a RotoZip bit in a Dremel, mounted in the little accessory mini-router base. Depth 1/4". That sucker took off across the Bison of my "Animal Family" WRC carvings before I could react! Plowed a really spastic track through the eyes. Ruined it, totally. Oh well. As a rank beginner, I'm learning is that there's an order, a progression, in carving. I'm cutting all the Animal Family faces in 1/2" poplar for woodcut block printing. Finally had to admit this morning that I'd ruined the moose. . . . start over. Lesson? Make all the outline stop cuts first. Then plow down the background. Rezbar: I really like the router idea for saving time. I need to watch it being done, especially whatever merits a plunge router might have. What's the operating difference in "spiral up" versus "spiral down" router bits? I can see the static difference, each spinning in a common direction. . |
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#8
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| I tried to use a RotoZip bit in a Dremel, mounted in the little accessory mini-router base. Depth 1/4". That sucker took off across the Bison of my "Animal Family" WRC carvings before I could react! Plowed a really spastic track through the eyes. Ruined it, totally. Oh well. I recommend a foot-controlled speed control to help with that. Also, there is only one direction to travel so as to not take off like you describe. Happens to us all at least once!! I'm learning is that there's an order, a progression, in carving. Make all the outline stop cuts first. Then plow down the background. yes always. Even when using only gouges. Rezbar: I really like the router idea for saving time. I need to watch it being done, especially whatever merits a plunge router might have. What's the operating difference in "spiral up" versus "spiral down" router bits? I can see the static difference, each spinning in a common direction. It has to do with the direction the chips are sent. Those are really intended for routing mortises. Last edited by BeaverDon; 05-18-2011 at 03:36 PM. |
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#9
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Thanks to everybody for your prompt answers. I have another one. By flattening a background (e.g. with a #2 Pfeil gouge), is it preferable to slice along the grain (vertical) or across the grain (perpendicular) or diagonal (slanting) to the grain. I hope to have made myself clear.
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#10
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I will cut in whatever direction I have to to get a clean cut. That's normally with the grain, or diagonal. Dylan
__________________ Check out my website at www.OldOakEnterprises.com Information on upcoming classes that I'll be teaching, Alabama Woodcarving Retreat Southeastern Woodcarving School |
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