where do you start?

[squbrigg]

I too begin with the background. I find once you get the depth done, the rest is easier.

Bob

[Mottles]

I don't use a router either, at first I used mallet tools, then picked up a second hand electric gouge unit. That is what I use now for hogging out the background. Then I switch to hand tools mostly palm for the remaining levels. I must admit though I have started looking at my Foredom power unit...espeically when my hands/fingers start getting tired. lol
Whether, hand tools, power tools, it all boils down to the result and what makes you happy as a carver. As far as starting from the back or front it's all again what works for each individual carver. I do think I'd like to try working from the front sometime, just to see how that all works too.
Kathy

[Alice in Wonderland]

"You People" why are you confusing an old girl???:-))))))))))))))
I have been thinking about my project alot I have the picture in my mind but of course with my drawing talent:-( i can not do it so I will start start and hope for the best , Doris ,I know you are an planer so is Mark and Kathy but Alice isn't.I even have thought to do just several in the round ?
Kathy what is an electric gouge unit?since my hands are totally shot I rely on power, I wish it would not be so ,I still feel the mallet in my hand and the enjoyment when the ships would fly but??
Thanks for all your reply and help
Alice

[Mottles]

Originally Posted by Alice in Wonderland

"You People" why are you confusing an old girl???:-))))))))))))))
I have been thinking about my project alot I have the picture in my mind but of course with my drawing talent:-( i can not do it so I will start start and hope for the best , Doris ,I know you are an planer so is Mark and Kathy but Alice isn't.I even have thought to do just several in the round ?
Kathy what is an electric gouge unit?since my hands are totally shot I rely on power, I wish it would not be so ,I still feel the mallet in my hand and the enjoyment when the ships would fly but??
Thanks for all your reply and help
Alice

Hi Alice, sorry---you know when you ask a question of woodcarvers you'll get 20 or more answers! lol
My electric gouge unit is by Ryobi and is handheld much like a Dremel and has 5 enterchangeable chisels and gouges. Unfortunately, they don't make this one anymore. Which it is a real workhorse with two power levels.
I have a Foredom and when the Ryobi gives up I'll get the Power Chisel Carver unit for it.
You can go to Foredom | Flexible Shaft Rotary Power Tools and Accessories and check out their units it's called 'Power Chisel Carver'. Also most of the better online woodcarving business carry brands of power gouge units. I'll check my favorites and find some site for you to look at.
PROXXON CARVER - Reciprocating Carvers - Power Carving Proxxon
Buy AUTOMACH Power Carver, AUTOMACH Power Carving Systems, Reciprocating AutoMach
Wecheer Rotary Tools, Handpieces and Accessories Wecheer
Wood Carvers Supply, Inc. MasterCarver
These are just a few, maybe others will add some too.
Macaw Relief Wood Carving
Working with Levels in Wood Carving
Kathy

[Alice in Wonderland]

Kathy I was kidding I hope you know that,?
Thanks for looking up the tools for me I appreciate it . I have the Weecher with both handpieces and the Proxxon , but not the carver I don't remember what the other one is called it has the little chainsaw blade ? You know my tool collection is larger then my husbands :-)) . My old favorite of 14 years heavy duty craftsman is finally giving up its life, I worked this mashine very hard what I know now on tools I am suprised it lasted that long. I am looking into the Foredom units. I am itching to get started, the weather is finally getting a bit warmer so I can heat up the shop.You do beautiful relief work so I trust your opinions Kathy Thanks.
Alice
Doris I will post my Mongoliam Man for you from the other P.C.

[Mottles]

Hi Alice, of course I knew you were kidding, sorry if my text chat made you think differently. Yeah I been running the heat in my garage workshop $$$$, but a gal gotta do what a gals gotta do.
You are most welcome, for the links I really like my Foredom power carver. I some times wish my Ryobi would quit so I could get the Foredom Power Chisel Carver. lol
Kathy

[Mike L Hasler]

Okay Alice, back to your Meercat relief piece. Are you still going to do it? Mine is a long way off from being finished, wondering how your relief piece may be coming along.

[Mike L Hasler]

Okay Alice, how did the meercat group caving go? Did ya get it started? Mine is still being worked on and a long way from finished, so, just wondering how yours is coming along.

[Irish]

I Like to work in my levels, shaping and details back to front. As both Kathy, Ron and Bob have mentioned that gives me more control over the overall depth of the carving compared to the depth of the wood.

With a relief board I do not want to go any deeper than 1/2 the wood thickness. Anything shallower can cause cupping, warping and even spliting over the years. Especially with a single focus element carving - a flower and it's flower pot - with no surround middle layers between the depth of the background and the element you ring that high element with an edge of carving that is the deepest in the wood. That type of situation can cause your board to literally twist like a pretzel.

So how deep I can go into the board is my very first consideration! For new or first time relief carvers starting from the front you can too easily find yourself without enough wood left for your background elements.

I don't know that you really need to "Plan" your carving, each and every step. I think that especially for new relief carvers, you need to take time to study your pattern or design. Look to see where each element lies in the pattern - the split rail fence is behind the bank barn but in front of the dirt road - yet the bank barn is behind the locust tree cluster which is behind the water pump.

In general I start with three levels for my elements during my roughout stage. As I work the shaping I can add more levels as needed.

After just a few relief patterns you do begin to think in depth and levels. That's the point where I find a new carver is ready to try front to back, back to front or even let's start in the middle.

Now ... there are things you can do to prevent cupping both before and after the carving is done. Before carving you can do a glue up of multiple boards that have a slight beveled angle to the side edges. This cups the glue up into a bowl shape so that after the carving is complete the natural cupping of the wood makes the board lie flat. After the carving you can add support strips to the back with slightly oversized holes and screws that pull the carving flat yet let it ride against the screw heads for humidity expansion.

That said I find it just so much easier to allow at least 1/2 of the wood behind the actual carving

Susan