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Relief and Chip Carving | |||
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#1
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Hello. I haven't had much luck finding information on pierced reliefs. Can anyone recommend a good book or describe the process for me? I work with a set of chisels (not power). I was thinking about drilling holes to get started, but then I wouldn't know how to secure the wood while carving all the way through. I currently just clamp my wood onto my bench. I appreciate any help! Thanks, Lynne |
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#2
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Haven't messed with this, but I did do a search and find a link for you. http://books.google.com/books?id=lOQ...CXMnY#PPA79,M1 This might help you a little Good Luck Mel Last edited by MelNM; 05-14-2007 at 09:16 PM. |
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#3
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Several of our club members do pierced work. Some use a scroll saw to remove the waste areas, and a few simply use a coping saw. With a coping saw, you can hold the material in a vice or make up a bench tool, by cutting a "V" shape in one end of a 1x6 (kinda like a bootjack)and clamping the other end to your bench or table so the "V" extends out over the edge. Set the blade so the teeth are toward the handle, and start with a drilled hole. The work piece will go on top of the 1x6 with the area you want to cut out over the open part of the "V". With the drawn pattern side of your board up, and the handle of the coping saw underneath, use small strokes and cut around your pattern area. You'll have to reposition the blade and pattern for each area to be removed, but that should get you on the way. Al |
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#4
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Mel=Thanks for the info. I will try to check out that book. Al=Thank you! Your description really helps. There's one thing I'm not sure I understand...When the work piece is on top of the v-board, is it also under the clamp? Lynne |
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#5
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Lynne, there is no need to clamp the workpiece down. In fact that would defeat the whole purpose of the jig. That 1x6 serves the same purpose as the table of a scroll saw. If you are right handed, you'll be working the coping saw with your right hand, and turning the workpiece with your left. Other way around if you are a lefty. There is one drawback to this system.....if your workpiece is large, the clamp holding the "V" board down may get in the way. That can be corrected by using a couple flat head screws to hold the "V" board to the work bench. (don't try this if you are using your grandma's antique dining room table for your workspace). You could use a longer board for your "V" board, but as the "V" gets farther out from the support of the workbnch, it tends to flex a bit and sawing becomes a bit more difficult. Al |
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#6
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I have pierced me a couple of times, does that count?
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#7
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Was it a relief, Dave, or just leave you feeling flat? Al |
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#8
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Well, lets just say I got the "point"!
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/daviddunlap |
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#9
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O.K. Mel, now I understand. Thanks, Lynne
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#10
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Lynne, the photos below are of a couple of pierced relief panels I carved in butternut. I cut all of the blind holes with a scroll saw after drilling a starter hole. If you're going to do this kind of pierced relief carving, you want to cut the piecred areas (holes) to final shape. Otherwise, you'lll spend a lot of time trying to dig out that final shape from a starter hole, and it's really tricky to get it right that way. Mike
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